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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The fuel pump has this thing in it called the fuel pressure regulator, looks like the image below. I believe on our bikes it;s built within the pump shroud. It's only job is to prevent the pump from building too much pressure and blowing the hoses. It basically opens after a certain bar of pressure and vents fuel back into the tank. Most people replace this when they replace a fuel pump as this is a wear item that does tend to fail. It could be the the FPR is venting at lower pressures then it should and starving the bike of fuel at higher fuel requirements.
This is my current suspect, especially with the issue of WOT only reaching 9K, and closing the throttle slightly allows the engine to climb to redline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I stumbled across this post I somehow couldn't find in the past. Definitely relates very close to my problem.


Unless I have more than one problem, I'm pretty certain it's my fuel regulator/fuel pump. Ordered a Quantum Fuel Pump kit for 110$, so we'll see if that fixes the issue! I'm past 43'000kms on the bike, original fuel pump, so fingers crossed.

It's getting damn cold real fast here, not sure how much longer I'll be able to ride but It would suck not being able to see I found the problem until spring lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well, it was the wrong fuel pump kit.

HFP-384-URT

Despite it saying for Z1000/Z750 2003 - 2006. I phone Quantum Fuel Systems and they instantly confirmed it's the wrong one, and gave me part numbers for the correct parts, which seem more expensive than just buying new frrom Kawasaki. This pump still looks wrong but the regulator looks right.

Part numbers than the Quantum Fuel Systems dude gave me:
15A pump - HFP-382SH-U
FPR - HFP-PR34

Reading more into the manual says that the entire fuel pump HAS to be replaced as a unit, can anyone confirm this? I noticed that on the OEM pump, the fuel filter is plastic welded in, and with gentle tugging the fuel pressure regulator didnt seem to want to come out. I also couldn't figure out how the entire assembly comes apart to be honest. Put it back together and it all still runs like it did before, cool. Back to square one. Thinking it might actually be better to do what buddy did in the above thread, and use a totally different pump setup. We'll see.

Looks like I might not get to solve my problem before putting the bike away for the winter.
 

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Well, it was the wrong fuel pump kit.

HFP-384-URT

Despite it saying for Z1000/Z750 2003 - 2006. I phone Quantum Fuel Systems and they instantly confirmed it's the wrong one, and gave me part numbers for the correct parts, which seem more expensive than just buying new frrom Kawasaki. This pump still looks wrong but the regulator looks right.

Part numbers than the Quantum Fuel Systems dude gave me:
15A pump - HFP-382SH-U
FPR - HFP-PR34

Reading more into the manual says that the entire fuel pump HAS to be replaced as a unit, can anyone confirm this? I noticed that on the OEM pump, the fuel filter is plastic welded in, and with gentle tugging the fuel pressure regulator didnt seem to want to come out. I also couldn't figure out how the entire assembly comes apart to be honest. Put it back together and it all still runs like it did before, cool. Back to square one. Thinking it might actually be better to do what buddy did in the above thread, and use a totally different pump setup. We'll see.

Looks like I might not get to solve my problem before putting the bike away for the winter.
this is common. On my Husqvarna, they only sell the fuel pump assembly as a whole for $600 which has the pump, shroud, regulator, hoses, level sender, float lever, gasket, etc.... According to the manual it cannot be serviced. But there was a fuel pump replacement kit from Quantum on ebay for $70 so I ordered it instead of spending 10x that on OEM. It was pretty straight forward to disassemble and put back together. Though again, this was for a Husky, I don't know how hard it is to take apart on a Kawasaki
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
What a ballache CJ.

I've been watching your thread with interest,you'll get there in the end man.
haha thanks man, appreciated!! Can't wait to put the ol "solved" badge on this thread.


And noted about the Fuel pump. It MUST be able to come apart if there's an aftermarket pump for it, and if you're able to buy the FPR. I must have just not been pulling hard enough to pop it out past the o-ring.

I'm still concerned about the filter inside the "plastic welded" case. I have a 3D printer which is to say I have filament, I wonder if I could cut open the top and re-plastic weld it back on....risky, but could potentially work. Having the pump outside the tank seems like a pretty good way to have a more maintainable fuel filter though.

Realized I snapped a quick photo of the pump. I had removed one of the screws on the side, so don't worry, it went back on before the pump went back in the tank lol.
85149
 

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So I went to the junkyard, pulled an OBD2 socket from an 03 Forester, re-arranged the wires the configuration according to the DIY Code Reading Guide, and spliced it in. It was slightly tricky because the Ninja400 wire colours are different, but I luckily was able to figure it out (only 4 wires, too) going by the wires from my gear indicator plug.

Unfortunately, either I need to simply swap the K-Line and L-Line, or, my reader (Innova 3030e) doesn't read KWP-2000, which I'm thinking is the case because I cant find any information saying that it does. So, while it powers on, after blinking "read" for 20 seconds or so, it just says "Error". Will update once I get a new OBD reader. will most likely get a bluetooth one.

As of now, still no answers yet.

View attachment 85121
What are the pinout for plug it into obd2 reader I found nothing about it . I Know That its connect to 4-5 ,7, 15 and 16 pin on obd2 but With withch wire of the kds plug
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
What are the pinout for plug it into obd2 reader I found nothing about it . I Know That its connect to 4-5 ,7, 15 and 16 pin on obd2 but With withch wire of the kds plug
Thanks
I'm assuming you did read this, but just to repost it:

It's true though that it doesnt show the actual wire colours. perhaps because they very?

For me it ended up being:

OBD2 -----------------------I---------------KDS
pin4/5 black/blue -------------> yellow/black (Ground)
pin 7 brown/white -----------> yellow/red (K-Line)
pin 15 white/black -----------> orange (L-Line)
pin 16 red/black --------------> yellow/white (12V)


Incase anyone's wondering, I've recently ordered another new fuel pump, going to take a second crack at taking the OEM pump and bracket apart. I'm 99% sure my issue is the fuel pump on it's last legs.
 

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I'm assuming you did read this, but just to repost it:

It's true though that it doesnt show the actual wire colours. perhaps because they very?

For me it ended up being:

OBD2 -----------I----------KDS
pin4/5 -----------> yellow/black (Ground)
pin 7 -----------> yellow/red (K-Line)
pin 15 -----------> orange (L-Line)
pin 16 -----------> yellow/white (12V)


Incase anyone's wondering, I've recently ordered another new fuel pump, going to take a second crack at taking the OEM pump and bracket apart. I'm 99% sure my issue is the fuel pump on it's last legs.
Thank You , mine dont have same color , z1000 2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Maybe not SUPER helpful, but you can see how I've snipped the OEM harness plug, so that in the first photo there's (3) sets of stripped ends. In the second photo you can see how I've spliced in the OBD2 plug into the OEM harness, technically combining (3) wires from each end.
85381
 

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I'm assuming you did read this, but just to repost it:

It's true though that it doesnt show the actual wire colours. perhaps because they very?

For me it ended up being:

OBD2 -----------I----------KDS
pin4/5 -----------> yellow/black (Ground)
pin 7 -----------> yellow/red (K-Line)
pin 15 -----------> orange (L-Line)
pin 16 -----------> yellow/white (12V)


Incase anyone's wondering, I've recently ordered another new fuel pump, going to take a second crack at taking the OEM pump and bracket apart. I'm 99% sure my issue is the fuel pump on it's last legs.
85383
 

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Maybe not SUPER helpful, but you can see how I've snipped the OEM harness plug, so that in the first photo there's (3) sets of stripped ends. In the second photo you can see how I've spliced in the OBD2 plug into the OEM harness, technically combining (3) wires from each end.
View attachment 85381
You didn't need to cut the harness, You could buy the factory Sumitomo HM-4P female plug off Amazon for $6

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
You didn't need to cut the harness, You could buy the factory Sumitomo HM-4P female plug off Amazon for $6

Yep, I also could have just bought an OBD plug with that end already on it. Side note: it's currently unavailable, and I also live in Canada, so everything's at least twice the price of what you guys pay.

The reason I didn't go with plugging directly into the KDS is that I have a gear indicator that I wanted to leave plugged in. This way I don't have to unplug anything and can test easily. I also didn't have to wait for shipping :p
 

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You didn't need to cut the harness, You could buy the factory Sumitomo HM-4P female plug off Amazon for $6

2007 2009 your z1000 ?
 

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ok so connector 4 wire but just 3 pin in it ?
If I remember correctly, the L-Line is not used, only the K-Line. So 3-pins should be enough to communicate. Be carefully though, DO NOT give your K-Line 12v by accident, it could fry your ECU. Triple check your wiring.

I remember back in early 2000's, if you showed up to a VW dealer with an aftermarket stereo they would refuse to work on your car because a lot of people unknowingly hooked up switched 12v to the original head unit harness's K-Line, which then ended up frying the dealer's $15,000 VAG 1551 scan tool.
 

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If I remember correctly, the L-Line is not used, only the K-Line. So 3-pins should be enough to communicate. Be carefully though, DO NOT give your K-Line 12v by accident, it could fry your ECU. Triple check your wiring.

I remember back in early 2000's, if you showed up to a VW dealer with an aftermarket stereo they would refuse to work on your car because a lot of people unknowingly hooked up switched 12v to the original head unit harness's K-Line, which then ended up frying the dealer's $15,000 VAG 1551 scan tool.
ok thanks for the notice 😅 , I also try with my inno a 3060 but no possible connection , I order a bluetooth reader on amazon kwp2000 compatible so gonna try with this one , for the z1000 2007 2009 I found nothing precise for wiring the kds plug to obd2 .. so I will be careful
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
ok thanks for the notice 😅 , I also try with my inno a 3060 but no possible connection , I order a bluetooth reader on amazon kwp2000 compatible so gonna try with this one , for the z1000 2007 2009 I found nothing precise for wiring the kds plug to obd2 .. so I will be careful
Sorry you're having trouble man! The only way I was actually able to figure out my wiring, was BECAUSE the aftermarket gear indicator was there. The gear indicator only has 3 wires, (red, black, and white) so I assumed correctly that red was power, black was ground, and white was K-Line, and could easily see which wire colour the gear indicator wires were corresponding to. As mentioned, L-Line isn't used, so I knew that the 4th wire was the L-Line.

You could potentially google a gear indicator for your model, and going off a photo, figure it out that way!

And yes, the unit MUST say that it is KWP2000 compatible. I was using a scanner that simply said "works on all ECU's", and kept getting error. Then I used a bluetooth scanner that was specifically compatible with KWP2000, and got the reading "no stored codes".
 
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