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sounds like a loose chassis ground. Especially if it only does it when warm. Check all your grounds, and the lead connected to the battery as well. Bikes do some weird **** when they have a bad ground.

 

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so no flashing FI light? maybe a clogged or inadequate pressure on the fuel rail or failing fuel pump? if it was a spark issue, as in bad coil or reg/rec then you'd get backfires from unburned fuel, shuddering and dying without backfire kind of points to lack of fuel?

 

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The kill switch is not resetting anything, the EFI computer on these bikes is about as complex as a late 1980's Toyota Corolla. If anything, all the kill switch is doing is killing the engine and possibly allowing proper fuel pressure to build once again when restarted.

The fuel pump has this thing in it called the fuel pressure regulator, looks like the image below. I believe on our bikes it;s built within the pump shroud. It's only job is to prevent the pump from building too much pressure and blowing the hoses. It basically opens after a certain bar of pressure and vents fuel back into the tank. Most people replace this when they replace a fuel pump as this is a wear item that does tend to fail. It could be the the FPR is venting at lower pressures then it should and starving the bike of fuel at higher fuel requirements.

There is also a fuel pressure sensor on the bike. If you build an OBD harness you should be able to read this value via a bluetooth dongle and an android phone and see how fuel pressue is acting when the bike is cutting out.

Don't spend money without doing proper diagnostics. The manual would state what kinda voltage and/or resistance you should be reading off both the throttle and sub throttle, or even datalogging via the aforementioned diagnostics. Definitely diagnose and be sure of the culprit before shooting the parts cannon at the problem...

 

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Thanks so much, really appreciate the info!

Lol simplicity is good, I like simplicity.

I had cleaned out my gas cap because I had thought ya, maybe flipping the kill switch released the fuel pump for a second, allowing proper vacuum to restore and then slowly builds up again as I keep riding. But, all seems good ventilation wise.

Never heard of building an OBD harness but I'll give it a google, sounds incredibly useful.

I'll take out the meter and do some tests. Need to make or snag an adapter harness to check the TP Sensors, I could only fit 2/3 gator clips into the clip.

just back probe the connector using a back probe pin. Look at this thread for the pinout for the diag connector. The Z1000 uses the same 4-pin K-Line connector via KWP2000 protocol as the Ninja400, NOT Can-Bus like the ZX6/10r bikes with the 6-pin connector

DIY Code Reading / Clearing via ODB2

This took a bit of mucking around to nut this out but we ended up with a great solution for clearing codes without having to do the "Kawasaki code clear silly dance 3 times". Parts needed: OBD-II socket from a car. Soldering iron, solder, and electrical tape to join four wires neatly to the...

www.ninja400riders.com

 

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Well, it was the wrong fuel pump kit.

HFP-384-URT

Despite it saying for Z1000/Z750 2003 - 2006. I phone Quantum Fuel Systems and they instantly confirmed it's the wrong one, and gave me part numbers for the correct parts, which seem more expensive than just buying new frrom Kawasaki. This pump still looks wrong but the regulator looks right.

Part numbers than the Quantum Fuel Systems dude gave me:
15A pump - HFP-382SH-U
FPR - HFP-PR34

Reading more into the manual says that the entire fuel pump HAS to be replaced as a unit, can anyone confirm this? I noticed that on the OEM pump, the fuel filter is plastic welded in, and with gentle tugging the fuel pressure regulator didnt seem to want to come out. I also couldn't figure out how the entire assembly comes apart to be honest. Put it back together and it all still runs like it did before, cool. Back to square one. Thinking it might actually be better to do what buddy did in the above thread, and use a totally different pump setup. We'll see.

Looks like I might not get to solve my problem before putting the bike away for the winter.

this is common. On my Husqvarna, they only sell the fuel pump assembly as a whole for $600 which has the pump, shroud, regulator, hoses, level sender, float lever, gasket, etc.... According to the manual it cannot be serviced. But there was a fuel pump replacement kit from Quantum on ebay for $70 so I ordered it instead of spending 10x that on OEM. It was pretty straight forward to disassemble and put back together. Though again, this was for a Husky, I don't know how hard it is to take apart on a Kawasaki

 

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Maybe not SUPER helpful, but you can see how I've snipped the OEM harness plug, so that in the first photo there's (3) sets of stripped ends. In the second photo you can see how I've spliced in the OBD2 plug into the OEM harness, technically combining (3) wires from each end.
View attachment 85381

You didn't need to cut the harness, You could buy the factory Sumitomo HM-4P female plug off Amazon for $6

Amazon.com: Peach Motor Parts PM-WIRE-CNCTR-0001 Female connector with male pins (HM-4P HM 090 Style 4-pin); Fits Honda�: 07VPZ-002030A, 07JAZ-001080A, KTM�: 000700000FS, Suzuki�: 09900-28710-003, Sumitomo Made b : Automotive

Buy Peach Motor Parts PM-WIRE-CNCTR-0001 Female connector with male pins (HM-4P HM 090 Style 4-pin); Fits Honda�: 07VPZ-002030A, 07JAZ-001080A, KTM�: 000700000FS, Suzuki�: 09900-28710-003, Sumitomo Made b: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

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ok so connector 4 wire but just 3 pin in it ?

If I remember correctly, the L-Line is not used, only the K-Line. So 3-pins should be enough to communicate. Be carefully though, DO NOT give your K-Line 12v by accident, it could fry your ECU. Triple check your wiring.

I remember back in early 2000's, if you showed up to a VW dealer with an aftermarket stereo they would refuse to work on your car because a lot of people unknowingly hooked up switched 12v to the original head unit harness's K-Line, which then ended up frying the dealer's $15,000 VAG 1551 scan tool.

 

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I posted the fix a few posts up, but It was my fuel pump! Replaced it with a Quantum Fuel Pump, and it absolutely hauls now. Still no power wheelies, but I've narrowed that down to the fact that my clutch is starting to slip.

told ya