Z1000R fork upgrade time
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This is what the stock big piston fork internals look like on the Z1000. In the pic the bottom is the left fork leg with preload only,the top is rebound and compression only. The K-Tech kit gives preload,compression and rebound in each fork.
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did you get a different stroke indicator than me? Mine looks nothing like the one on yours. Yours looks super flat, almost like its tape instead of a plastic ring. Also, you normally put the stroke indicator on the right leg since the bike leans left on the kick stand, not that it makes much difference...They are back!
Due to the continuing **** weather here,it's going to be weeks yet before I give them a trial run and setup.
Roll on the Springtime.
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Also, did your suspension guy tell you what rate spring he put in it? I think were roughly the same weight (170lbs?) so I'm curious what he chose.
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Nah it's just a bit of tape man!
I'll ask what spring he used.
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He said he used a 10.5N spring. When I asked him if it would be a bit tight for the road he said," not at all, design is completely different from stock and uses a top out spring which completely changes the spring rate requirements and how the forks work".
So there ya go Ungarisch. It's currently freezing and snowing here,so I'm a while from giving any feedback!
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That's interesting. Did you tell him your bike no longer weighs 221kg's? With all your current mods your bike should be in the 204kg range, or about what a modern 1000cc bike sits at, and on those you generally run 1.0kg springs for race applications for our weight. Or, at least that's what my friend runs on his S1000rr dedicated track bike.
I guess set your rider sag again in the front, where you should have around 38mm (+/-2mm), and if after that your static sag (bike on its own weight without you on it) is less than 30mm then your spring is too stiff. Setting sag on the front is easier than back if you use the zip tie method. The front you can do by yourself without the need of another person.
I guess set your rider sag again in the front, where you should have around 38mm (+/-2mm), and if after that your static sag (bike on its own weight without you on it) is less than 30mm then your spring is too stiff. Setting sag on the front is easier than back if you use the zip tie method. The front you can do by yourself without the need of another person.
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It's a bit hard to see in there,but they look the same as the ones in this link.
K-Tech 20IDS Front Fork Cartridge Kit KTM RC390 2014>
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I've had a couple of runs out now on the new fork setup.
The roads are not to be trusted at the moment,a combination of damp patches,gravel and potholes preclude riding with abandon for any length of time.
Further observation shows the front end of the bike to be much improved,those teeth rattling roads are now suddenly much better surfaced.
I'm aware of the forks working and feeding back information,but they are filtering out all the tiring harshness.
Aside from backing off a little preload,I haven't started to adjust any damping yet,so all indicators are good. Well pleased with Mark @ SSR suspension's work.
The roads are not to be trusted at the moment,a combination of damp patches,gravel and potholes preclude riding with abandon for any length of time.
Further observation shows the front end of the bike to be much improved,those teeth rattling roads are now suddenly much better surfaced.
I'm aware of the forks working and feeding back information,but they are filtering out all the tiring harshness.
Aside from backing off a little preload,I haven't started to adjust any damping yet,so all indicators are good. Well pleased with Mark @ SSR suspension's work.
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