I'm getting a little over 100 per tank. I did read that it was getting a little over 30 mpg. On a 4 gal tank, that should go 120, if you really want to push it.
z1000 mpg : how many miles per tank?
I am looking for the approximate gas mileage I could expect from the Z1000. I am a long-distance rider, and the comfortable seating position attracted me to the Z1k .... I'm wondering what kind of MPG this thing gets, and also the tank size so I can figure out how many miles I could go on a tank of gas....
1 - 20 of 125 Posts
33 on the 2010 with a heavy hand.
my stock 04 gets about 150 before the fuel light starts flashing. all around millage is around 40-45 MPG. i am pretty laid back . all my bikes got over 40 MPG.
I know on my cough... CBR i get about 200KM to a tank... thats like 120miles...
Stew
Stew
I am considering buying a Z1000, (not the new 2010 model) and wondered about the MPG as well. Also what grade of fuel is necessary, not for racing, but just steady cruising on the highway? Thanks.
Bill
Bill
You can get by running regular, but I personally never would nor have I. Anything with a compression ratio above 10:1 should run premium. For the extra $0.80 per fill up it is worth it.
Stop and go traffic will get you around 30 mpg after the first few tanks. My first tank ran out at 95 miles, but I get to 115 now before filling up(I a bit weary of going any farther than that).
On the highway, on the other hand, mileage picks up. I kept the engine at 5K this weekend on my ride and got a little over 40 mpg.
On the highway, on the other hand, mileage picks up. I kept the engine at 5K this weekend on my ride and got a little over 40 mpg.
Ya no doubt!!! the last thing you want is to be cruising around on ****ty gas and get a throttle itch. Not worth cheaping out spend the extra buck!You can get by running regular, but I personally never would nor have I. Anything with a compression ratio above 10:1 should run premium. For the extra $0.80 per fill up it is worth it.
I'm just about to fill up and I'm at 96 miles. should be able to go another 4 at least! Mostly short rides to and from work (5min each way). Wish I worked further from home!
How are you an admin with only 13 post???? Did I join the right forum? lolI know on my cough... CBR i get about 200KM to a tank... thats like 120miles...
Stew
I really don't know my mpg on my 08 Z1000, but I do know that it goes up a little once the engine breaks in. As for octane ratings, the second gen reqires 91 min.. Stick to this!! I don't know about 1st gens, but it's prolly the same. Octane req. have NOTHING to do with how expensive your vehicle is (Honda vs Duc), or how much HP you have (generally speaking). It's all about the Compression ratio of the engine. If your motor makes 8.7:1 comp and the factory says 87 octane min., then using 91 or race gas will get you ABSOLUTELY ZERO increase in HP, Tq or mileage. Period. Octane additives, (the amounts defined in octane ratings: 87,89,91,93, etc.) are put in to prevent "detonation", which is the a/f mix lighting up due to pressure, before the spark plug lights it up. The higher the compression ratio, the sooner the fuel will generally ignite, so the higher the required octane. In old school terms, a run of the mill 8:1 chevy 350 runs on 87 octane (reg) unleaded. To this day, almost every car or truck sold in this country is designed to run on reg.. Putting 91 in does NOTHING. BUT, if you swap out the 76cc heads for 64cc's, or swap the dished pistons for flat-tops, or change the thick cork head gaskets to thin copper "shim" gaskets, you will increase the compression and the fuel/air will ignite due to pressure, before the ignition (spark) sets it off. This is usually just known as "knocking", but at it's worse it will destroy your motor. In a turbo or supercharged engine the "mechanical" comp.is lowered, say 8.7 down to 8.0, but the boost puts it much higher, and thus needs higher octane not to lose power/burn up pistons. LONG STORY SHORT, find out what the factory says your engine needs, and use that. If you use less, you will damage your engine and/or lose power at the least. Use higher and you're just wasting money. Many auto mechanics don't understand this ****. 07-09's need 91 octane. 1st or 3rd gen.s, ???
Note: this is info I've picked up over the years from the tech guys at Comp Cams, Summit Racing, Felpro gaskets, Chevy performance, etc etc, All talking directly to me about projects I was working on, as well as a few motors I've ruined before I knew about this. I am not a mechanic or expert, just a hobbyist that tries to do it right and understand the actually theory before I buy the wrong part(s).
Note: this is info I've picked up over the years from the tech guys at Comp Cams, Summit Racing, Felpro gaskets, Chevy performance, etc etc, All talking directly to me about projects I was working on, as well as a few motors I've ruined before I knew about this. I am not a mechanic or expert, just a hobbyist that tries to do it right and understand the actually theory before I buy the wrong part(s).
What if my engine isn't stock. For example say I have 13:1 compression (overbore kit). How can I find the proper octane level? Can I assume that all 13:1 compression engines (car/motorcycle/moped) take the same octane fuel?LONG STORY SHORT, find out what the factory says your engine needs, and use that. If you use less, you will damage your engine and/or lose power at the least. Use higher and you're just wasting money. Most auto mechanics don't understand this ****. 07-09's need 91 octane. 1st or 3rd gen.s, ???
I use 93 in all my bikes. no matter what even if they say it's okay. Over time the high octane (which burns slower) will help against pre-detonation which helps cut out build up on the valves and piston.
3K ZK, I'm not sure. I'd call/email the company that made the kit or did the work, and ask them. Going overbore won't necessarily raise comp., could lower it. Depends on the design of the pistons used. Using higher oct than you actually need won't hurt anything, I was just saying that it would be a waste of money. Regularly using fuel below what it needs would be bad, though. Most cars/trucks since mid-80's have/had some version of a knock sensor in the block, and if you were getting detonation it would retard the timing, helping to prevent damage but costing you power. My experience w/this is on carb'ed engines, and I don't really know about modern FI bikes. My Z has the stock head/pistons/comp.ratio, so I just use 91 like Kawi says. Last bike called for 87, and that's what I used then. Last V8 started as 8.5 comp and ran great on 87. Many rebuilds later at 11:1 with a Comp Magnum 280 cam and 93 wasn't enough- had to use alot of octane additive, cause the airport and dragstrip(s) were just too far away (to get racing fuel). Blah blah blah. Register over on RiderForums/ Z100/750 section. Those guys REALLY know there stuff about our bikes, lots of pro mechanics and racers with Z's. I've been a member on KawiForums for over a year and have never gotten my questions answered there- they all ride ninja 250's and 600's. Not knocking this ZForum at all, really, but for serious to-the-point hard-core info, RiderForums all the way. JME
How are you an admin with only 13 post???? Did I join the right forum? lol
Because he's the biggest forum ho around. If you add up all his posts, he's got at least.... 20!
the 2010 fuel gauge starts crying emtpy with over a gallon left. Whatever, the gsxr and klr don't have guages, just a light (gsxr) and reserve toggle (klr). I still love it, I'm getting the apro installed this week, we shall see if the gm goes up or down.
I make sure the site is clean..How are you an admin with only 13 post???? Did I join the right forum? lol
Stew
Enough from the peanut galleryBecause he's the biggest forum ho around. If you add up all his posts, he's got at least.... 20!
Max, you know your stuff! I second everything you're saying here!!I really don't know my mpg on my 08 Z1000, but I do know that it goes up a little once the engine breaks in. As for octane ratings, the second gen reqires 91 min.. Stick to this!! I don't know about 1st gens, but it's prolly the same. Octane req. have NOTHING to do with how expensive your vehicle is (Honda vs Duc), or how much HP you have (generally speaking). It's all about the Compression ratio of the engine. If your motor makes 8.7:1 comp and the factory says 87 octane min., then using 91 or race gas will get you ABSOLUTELY ZERO increase in HP, Tq or mileage. Period. Octane additives, (the amounts defined in octane ratings: 87,89,91,93, etc.) are put in to prevent "detonation", which is the a/f mix lighting up due to pressure, before the spark plug lights it up. The higher the compression ratio, the sooner the fuel will generally ignite, so the higher the required octane. In old school terms, a run of the mill 8:1 chevy 350 runs on 87 octane (reg) unleaded. To this day, almost every car or truck sold in this country is designed to run on reg.. Putting 91 in does NOTHING. BUT, if you swap out the 76cc heads for 64cc's, or swap the dished pistons for flat-tops, or change the thick cork head gaskets to thin copper "shim" gaskets, you will increase the compression and the fuel/air will ignite due to pressure, before the ignition (spark) sets it off. This is usually just known as "knocking", but at it's worse it will destroy your motor. In a turbo or supercharged engine the "mechanical" comp.is lowered, say 8.7 down to 8.0, but the boost puts it much higher, and thus needs higher octane not to lose power/burn up pistons. LONG STORY SHORT, find out what the factory says your engine needs, and use that. If you use less, you will damage your engine and/or lose power at the least. Use higher and you're just wasting money. Many auto mechanics don't understand this ****. 07-09's need 91 octane. 1st or 3rd gen.s, ???
Note: this is info I've picked up over the years from the tech guys at Comp Cams, Summit Racing, Felpro gaskets, Chevy performance, etc etc, All talking directly to me about projects I was working on, as well as a few motors I've ruined before I knew about this. I am not a mechanic or expert, just a hobbyist that tries to do it right and understand the actually theory before I buy the wrong part(s).
1 - 20 of 125 Posts
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