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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok long story short. Picked up a ass over tits 04 Z1000. Got all the body work done and painted parts a custom color. While the paint is fully curing i am trying to get her to thump on starter fluid. So far I have jumped out the kickstand switch, clutch switch, grounded neutral switch and bike is in neutral. Soldered the grey wire directly to the brown on ignition switch with a 100 ohm 2 watt resistor. Continuity from switch to ecu at grey wire. Voltage at 10v when switch is on. Ecu changed out with known good unit. Camshaft and crank sensors good. With fuel pump connected ecu primes so assuming its not the tip sensor. I am at a total loss. I get code 15 but that sensor is currently broken on the bike and it shouldnt prevent it from having spark. I need help. I have to be out of my house in 12 days and I need to get it going. Please if anyone has any ideas let me know.

Not surr why there is 10v instead of 6 on grey wire unless that is ok. I have exhausted my knowledge at this point and am praying someone knows something i dont.
Camshaft 424 ohms
Crank 1.39 mv
Clutch jumped out
Kickstand jumped out
Neutral light on bike in neutral
Clutch pulled in.
Non immobilizer model.
 

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Have you checked the "vehicle down" sensor, it's designed to shut off the bike after a spill. Also, you may have the optional immobilizer which requires you to use the key matched to bike or no ignition. Also, the battery must be fully charged for some of the systems to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Battery is ruled out its fully charged and on a charger. Vehicle down sensor not sure how to check that but figured if the pump primes it was good. No immobilizer in the ignition. No ring around key hole and only the one harness connection. What baffles me is why the grey wire shows 10.4v even with a 100ohm resistor. Should I cut the wire and go dirrect from the battery with a resistor? Im at a complete loss. I have a funny feeling that its all about this resistor.
 

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not sure I agree with your trouble shooting. The vehicle down sensor interrupts the ignition and starter relay but it does not appear to interrupt the fuel pump. Considering the type of accident the bikes been in the vehicle down sensor seems the most likely culprit and it's easy to check. Also, you should check the DFI codes from the main gauge. The service manual has an entire section that describes how to get the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got a known good vds on the way. I was under the impression it killed the fuel pump but if not that is great news. It does not come up on the FI codes when i pull them. I get 1 long and 5 short so thats code 15 which is atmospheric pressure sensor. According to the tech manual it will not cause a no start condition if its missing.
 

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I just read your first post again and wonder why are you "hotwiring" the ignition? If you hook up the original equipment wiring and ignition you can rule out a bunch of variables. I'm assuming the FI light is on all the time you are trying to start the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It flashes as it normally does. There is a brand new ignition on it now. Verrified with the resistor. My issue is this, everyone says you need 6v going to the ecu to get the cdi to trigger spark. A 100 ohm resistor on 12v will only drop to arround 10.5v. So in order to get that thing 6v on that grey wire just to rule it out. Im going to hook up a 12v to 6v regulator and see what i get while im waiting on the vds to arrive next week. Should have the regulator by tues. I have pulled the FI trouble codes and only get code 15. That is not a code that will kill spark.

Any other ideas are welcome at this point.
 

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I just checked my bike to be certain, when you switch on the ignition the FI light should come on for a few seconds and then go out indicating that it's done it's self check and everything is working right that the ecu monitors. I'm not sure about the 6v issue to the ecu, I know that is the case for other kawasakis as a theft preventative but I don't see anything on the wiring diagram showing a resistor lowering the voltage to the ecu, but I'll check on my bike tomorrow. But again, I think you have nothing to lose by hooking up all of the factory wiring, versus soldering the grey to the brown wire, and seeing what codes you get at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh no i did that just to eliminate the old ignition as a problem. She has a brand new ignition in now. Everything i have read about that grey wire says 6v. It does not appear at all in the manual or in the wiring diagram which makes sense. I only have one DFI code which is 15 denoted by 1 long (10) and five short (5) which according to the manual is the atmospheric pressure sensor. I need to repair that connector. As it is shreaded off the back of the bike from the crash. Took a while to figure out where its wiring was. Got that on order as well as a new VDS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok update. I spent time tonight going over the harness. I pinned each wire from where it starts to the ecu, all wires have continuity. Each coil, injector, sensor, switch, and anything that could possibly cause this engine not to spark. Known good ecu is connected. With key on we get subthrottle valves actuating, the gauge cluster does its warm up and the ecu relay powers the ecu checked via dvm with probe. I am completely stumped. Im praying it is the vehicle down sensor but i just dont know. This is absolutely ridiculous. Does anyone know of anything else to try? Oh, also fed the grey wire 6v with the stepdown converter so ruled that out to. 🤬😩
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I GOT IT! After going through and taking the whole harness apart, checking every wire, then relooming it, it turns out even though it tested good per the tech manual, the vehicle down sensor was bad. Thank you everyone who had input. I hope this helps a future Z owner in their time of need.
 
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