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Some of the 3rd Gen Z1000/Ninja1000 make a rattle noise at cold start when the clutch is disengaged (lever pulled in).

I believe that the noise is caused by the clutch plates being dry and rattling against the clutch hub/basket.

Here is a video of the noise.

2011 Z1000 clutch noise - YouTube

When I removed the clutch plates from that bike the plates were very dry, normally they are coated with oil.

After the modification the owner said that the clutch was smoother and the noise is gone.

Here is the modification.

1st - Remove the clutch plates, make sure to keep them in order.

2nd - Remove the clutch hub.

3rd - you will want to use a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill holes in the clutch hub.

You have to be careful not to drill into the spring bosses and the webbing that is used to strengthen the clutch hub.

Notice that the holes go over and up and after the 4th hole you will start over at the bottom.

I had to skip 2 holes because they would have gone into the webbing.







The new holes in the clutch hub allows the oil that gets into the center of the clutch hub to get into the clutch plates better but we still need to supply some additional oil into the center of the clutch hub.

This picture is an exaggerated example of the flat that you will need to grind on the clutch release rod.



The diameter of the shaft is .417+/-

You will want to grind a .010 flat.

Now using a service manual reassemble the clutch assembly.

I use and recommend Yamalube 10w-40 conventional motor oil.

I plan to do this mod to my bike and when I do I will get some photos of the operation.
 

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WOW, that video makes that clutch sound like a "Duc". Glad to know it's a simple fix. Can you reuse the clutch cover gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WOW, that video makes that clutch sound like a "Duc". Glad to know it's a simple fix. Can you reuse the clutch cover gasket?
I wouldn't reuse the gasket.
 

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Many thanks to Repair for his time and assistance with this fix on my bike! It even shifts a bit smoother too.
 

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Once we figured out the fix I think that I can do mine in an hour or so but I have a full bike lift and tools at home.
 

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Many thanks to Repair for his time and assistance with this fix on my bike! It even shifts a bit smoother too.
Glad to help and a big THANKS to you for the assistance with Kawasaki. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
nice will this mod help with clutch wear? i mean will it make it last a little longer.
It should, a dry clutch plate can not keep itself cool and heat in a clutch plate means wear.

I rebuilt automatic transmissions for 20 years and they all have holes in their clutch hubs to lube the clutch plates.
 

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did u come up with the fix or did Kawasaki?
 

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did u come up with the fix or did Kawasaki?
Kawasaki suggested drilling the holes in the clutch hub. They had made the slot on the release shaft too deep on the bike that they had worked on and it wasn't able to find neutral so they put the stock shaft back in and it was 90% so they called it good.

They left it up to me to decide whether to grind a slot and if I did grind one how deep to make the slot so basically all I did was guess how deep to make the slot.
 

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I did the upgrade to my bike on Friday and it does shift smoother, sorry that I was in a hurry and didn't have time to make an instruction video.

If one of the guys that lives near Indy wants to come to Indy I will do the upgrade for the price on the gasket and oil and I will make a video.
 

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Repair, it's nice to hear that the fix helped your bike out too, even with low miles on it and before any annoying rattle started!


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
I'm glad that there is a fix and that the time you spent dealing with this problem wasn't wasted and it will help all of us. :eek:ccasion:
 

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Kawasaki suggested drilling the holes in the clutch hub. They had made the slot on the release shaft too deep on the bike that they had worked on and it wasn't able to find neutral so they put the stock shaft back in and it was 90% so they called it good.

They left it up to me to decide whether to grind a slot and if I did grind one how deep to make the slot so basically all I did was guess how deep to make the slot.
So this is why I have a hard time finding neutral? It's to the point that I have to down shift to first and then up to neutral.

What are the chances of this becoming a TSB?
 

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what are the chances of this becoming a TSB?
I doubt that it will, it will one of those fixes that they will pay for on a case by case basis.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How do you recommend that I approach this in NY? Just explain the difficulty finding neutral and then describe the rough shifting?
They use this fix for the transmission noise and I doubt that they would concider the other issues a problem that would be covered by the warranty.
 
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