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Discussion Starter #1
Finally! Exactly 100 days after I placed my order, they showed up on Saturday. I literally though I was never going to get them. I kept getting excuses from the supplier, first saying that they are delayed due to all of Italy being on holiday for 3 weeks in December (must be nice!), then due to Covid restrictions, and then again when I emailed them in late February they said that OZ first produces MotoGP wheels before they get to customer orders... Well the wheels are now here, and I see that they are stamped 01/2021.

And here are the weight difference between them and the OEM 2010 wheels;

Front OEM wheel including the Brembo 310mm discs weighs 27.7 pounds
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Rear OEM wheel again with the non-flower looking Brembo disc and SupreSprox ultralight steel sprocket weighs 36.4 pounds. That is a sh*t-ton!
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The front OZ wheel with the same discs and tire weighs 23.3 pounds, or 4.4 pounds of savings!
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The rear OZ wheel with the same disc, and tire but with Renthal Aluminum sprocket weighs 28.2 pounds or a savings of 8.2 pounds over stock
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So I have net total weight saving of 12.6 pounds, or 5.7 kilograms! That's sizable, especially considering it;s unsprung weight

Now for some interesting findings, it appears that the Brembo rotors are actually 0.58 pounds heavier than stock, each. Which is surprising.

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Same goes for the rear, though this time only 0.19 pounds heavier.
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Unfortunately, no one that I know of makes those ultralight rotors for our bikes, so this will have to do for now until I find some.

And now here are the wheels mounted to the bikes:

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them wheels look sexy as hell! congrats brother. they look soooooo good with the color of your bike. what do you think your curb weight is down to now?

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Discussion Starter #4
Super sweet work!

Were the wheels a straight fit?
They would have been a straight fit if I would have ordered the correct wheels to begin with. I ordered wheels for a 3rd gen, not realizing that i now have 4th gen forks, so I should have ordered a 4th gen set. I didn't want to alter the order and delay it further, so when they showed up, I had the wheel spacers machined down in order to fit the 4th gen forks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
them wheels look sexy as hell! congrats brother. they look soooooo good with the color of your bike. what do you think your curb weight is down to now?

View attachment 85502
That scale I used, the one with the remote display, I purchased that specifically to weigh all of my bikes with. It's fairly accurate (I compared it to my highly accurate Beurer and it was very close), it also can read up to 440 pounds. I'm planning on weighing the bike this weekend, or as soon as I can have someone help me hold the bike while I place the scale under each wheel, one at the a time and then adding up the numbers to get a total bike weight.

If the original weight of the bike according to Kawasaki was 218kg or 480lbs, I'm expecting with all the current mods the bike to be right around 200kg or 440lbs, or less. That is if Kawasaki's official 218kg figure was with a full tank of gas, which is how I plan on measuring it. The exhaust, wheels and lithium battery alone should have saved over 18kg alone. The 520 conversion, alu rearsets, alu bars, etc. should have saved another 2-3kg, so technically the bike should be well below 200kg.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, I got impatient and weighed both my bikes just now, and I'm really surprised at the results. The Kawasaki came out even lighter than expected. With the fuel tank filled to about 95% (about 6 miles on it since filling up to the brim), the bike weighted 431.4 pounds or 195.6 kg! Pretty much identical to the manufacturer stated weights on a brand new ZX6r, and whopping 25 pounds or 11.3kg lighter than a brand new ZX10r! That's huge!

On the other hand, I weighed my Husqvarna supermoto and that bike actually weighed more than the manufacturer stated weight, by about 2.5 pounds, despite taking at least 15 pounds of weight off it with a full Ti exhaust, lithium battery and other crap that I removed off of it. Fricking lying Italians! Never trust their curb weight figures!

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Excellent work ungarish! you earned it brother. bet the bike is super flickable with the ultra light wheels. look forward to hearing more in your next report 😉
 

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well, I got impatient and weighed both my bikes just now, and I'm really surprised at the results. The Kawasaki came out even lighter than expected. With the fuel tank filled to about 95% (about 6 miles on it since filling up to the brim), the bike weighted 431.4 pounds or 195.6 kg! Pretty much identical to the manufacturer stated weights on a brand new ZX6r, and whopping 25 pounds or 11.3kg lighter than a brand new ZX10r! That's huge!
Brilliant stuff Ungarisch. I have mine sitting at 207kgs,so it's great to have a target to get under that 200 mark.

Those wheels will make a massive difference in how the bike feels too,I'll be really interested to see if you need to make further suspension adjustments to suit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Brilliant stuff Ungarisch. I have mine sitting at 207kgs,so it's great to have a target to get under that 200 mark.

Those wheels will make a massive difference in how the bike feels too,I'll be really interested to see if you need to make further suspension adjustments to suit.
The 4th gen bikes were listed as 221kg wet. And actually I take back what i said about the 3rd gen weight. It appears that the non-ABS model (which is what mine is) were 215kg, while the ABS equipped models were 218kg. So I have about a 6kg head start on your bike, which makes perfect sense as we have similar mods, and prior to the OZ wheels my bike should have weighed around 201kg's, which is about what I calculated after adding up the weights of all the lightended and removed components.

I too am curious about how it's going to feel when I ride it. It's been rainy the last 2 days here so I have not had the chance to take it for a test ride yet. But this Friday evening I'm headed out to the racetrack again for the weekend, luckily no rain forecasted. This time I'm taking tire warmers and generator with me, because last track days I pretty much destroyed my new Michelins from cold tearing from the 60*F track temps.

Interestingly, the bike has lost 12 pounds since I've last been to the track, and I've lost about 12 pounds of Covid weight since then as well. So I'm hoping those 24 pounds count for at least 1 second a lap. 🤣

As for suspension adjustment, I have a feeling I will need to back-out/decrease my rebound dampening due to the less moving enetria, but I will ask the trackside suspension tuner for his advice.

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My guess is,you'll be buzzing after the first ride. I've never forked out for super light wheels,(yet) but those I know who have,raved about the dramatic difference in that battle with centrifugal force. Effortless is a word which recurs.
 

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Those front rotors are a little heavy. I noticed that with mine, as well. But, they are thicker than stock. They should be very durable, and you know how well they work. It's probably worth the extra weight.

I have the same rear rotor that you have. I also have a round, official Brembo rotor. The real brembo item is 1mm thinner and a full pound lighter. This is the real brembo . I think the galfer rear rotor is lighter, but I hate wave rotors.
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Those front rotors are a little heavy. I noticed that with mine, as well. But, they are thicker than stock. They should be very durable, and you know how well they work. It's probably worth the extra weight.

I have the same rear rotor that you have. I also have a round, official Brembo rotor. The real brembo item is 1mm thinner and a full pound lighter. This is the real brembo . I think the galfer rear rotor is lighter, but I hate wave rotors. View attachment 85511
excellent! I'm going to get one since they are not so expensive.

Galespeed makes a floating rotor as well, but not sure I want to pay $300 for one. The Brembo at 120 shipped seems more reasonable.


Also, who makes your rear caliper adapter? I want to make sure that when i upgrade to the brembo 34mm rear caliper that I get one of those adapters without the speed sensor bung. Or did you just grind it down?
 

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I love the Galespeed stuff. I almost bought one of their rear master cylinders..,I should have, but I paid 7.99, including shipping, for this used zx10 part.

My rear brake carrier is from Webike Japan. The brand name is Active. I remember their being two choices. I assumed abs/non abs, but I'm not sure that was accurate. There was a cost difference of something like 7.00...strange. I believe I bought this one.

ACTIVE : Rear Caliper Support (Brembo 2P&Standard Rotor Diameter) [1470093B]

Mine has the speed sensor bung, but it's mostly hidden. With this adaptor, they placed the sensor right above the caliper. Mostly under the swingarm. Sorry for the bad picture. They did an excellent job with this. LLP
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The wheels are amazing. I remember when the ninja 1000 was released, in 2011. They made mention of its wheels being lighter than the wheels for the mostly identical z 1000. I wonder how true that is? That might be a way to accomplish some of the weight loss for less money?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've read off the German Z1000 forums that the 5-spokes that came on the 2010-13 3rd gen Z were a massively heavy when compared to the Y-spokes that came on the Ninja's and 4th gen Z's. So yeah, that should definitely be a cheap upgrade for folks with 3rd gen Z's. I can post the bare weights of the OEM wheels, without discs and tires so that someone that's interested can do a true apples to apples comparison.

Regarding the rear master. I really want to get rid of the OEM fluid reservoir, so I'm planning on adapting an Aprilia RSV4 / Tuono Brembo master with integrated reservoir for this reason. They can be had for around $75 on ebay.

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I was initially going to buy the Agras caliper adapter because that one came with a billet torque arm, while the Active adapter still reused the OEM steel torque arm, and that piece is quite heavy. However, once I saw the price of the Agras adapter, that quickly changed my mind, and most probably going to go with the Active adapter.

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I've ridden a few Aprilias and they all had little or no rear brake. I take it there's a way to overcome that if your thinking of using an Aprilia rear M/C?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've ridden a few Aprilias and they all had little or no rear brake. I take it there's a way to overcome that if your thinking of using an Aprilia rear M/C?
pedal feel all comes down to master cylinder size versus caliper piston diameter. It's basically just a leverage ratio. If your brake pedal feels hard and wooden then that mean you master cylinder size is too big for that caliper piston size. If you want your rear brakes to be grippy and lock up easy, then you would decrease the size of your master cylinder or increase the piston size of your rear caliper diameter. Same goes for front brakes.
 

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Skub, I did a lot of research looking for proper master cylinder to caliper ratios. It was insane because there are facts and figures regarding what these ratios need to be for proper feel and performance. Based on what I discovered, most systems were built by the legal department. Not by the engineers. It was as if they dialed all of the power out of them.
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It looks like the brembo/aprilia master cylinder is a 15mm. That should work fairly well with a 34mm (2 34mm piston) master cylinder.

They say we are after numbers in the the 12:1 to 14:1 range. My 13mm master and 32 mm caliper is right at 12.1.....that works, on the chart and guess what? My rear brake doesnt suck.

Stock is about 7.37.....I know. If this chart is accurate, that's why it sucks. We have a 14mm master cylinder with a single 38mm piston. The piston may have been 36mm . Still, a long way away from what's ideal.
 

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Skub, I did a lot of research looking for proper master cylinder to caliper ratios. It was insane because there are facts and figures regarding what these ratios need to be for proper feel and performance. Based on what I discovered, most systems were built by the legal department. Not by the engineers. It was as if they dialed all of the power out of them. View attachment 85517


It looks like the brembo/aprilia master cylinder is a 15mm. That should work fairly well with a 34mm (2 34mm piston) master cylinder.

They say we are after numbers in the the 12:1 to 14:1 range. My 13mm master and 32 mm caliper is right at 12.1.....that works, on the chart and guess what? My rear brake doesnt suck.

Stock is about 7.37.....I know. If this chart is accurate, that's why it sucks. We have a 14mm master cylinder with a single 38mm piston. The piston may have been 36mm . Still, a long way away from what's ideal.
Interesting info RC,who'd have thought there even was a rear brake M/C rabbithole to disappear down. :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have aftermarket rearsets, which gives me the ability to place the master in different pivot locations in order to achieve different leverage ratios without needing to change piston sizes. See image clip below. I found it that if I placed the eyelet in the hole closest to the peg, the rear wheel locked up too easily, even with the stock master and caliper, which I know everyone says sucks. As I keep banging on about, you guys know that I do a lot of track days, and for that application you really don't want a massively grabby rear brake. I mostly only use rear brakes when slowing down from a really long straight, especially if it's on a downhill slope, where you mainly use the rear brake to stabilize the rear of the bike, more so than to actually slow you down. So locking up the rear is really not ideal for that situation. Also modulating the rear in long steady throttle sweeper corner helps tighten your line without rolling off the throttle, and again bitey is not ideal for that either.

For streets, dirt and supermoto, bitey is what you want. My Husqvarna locks up the rear if I look at it funny. But again as RC mentioned most street bikes have wooden brakes to keep the legal department happy...

Once I get the Ape master, I'm also going to upgrade to the Brembo P34 rear 2-piston caliper that RC listed above, and will fine tune the leverage ratio by adjusting which hole I place the eyelet into.

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