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I ran it dead when I got stranded yesterday. When I got it home I put it on the charger, 12V @ 6amps (battery was only drawing 5 amps tho), and took only a little over an hour to charge. Started the bike to test the stator and it idled fine/reved to 4k fine. Threw my gear on to test it out, and as soon as I let the clutch out it would die. Got angry, went to bed, woke up at 6 this morning and started the bike, let it warm, got on it and went only about 1 mile but no issues.

The battery could very possibly be pretty old. And interesting thing, at idle battery voltage reads 13.5V. Rev the engine to 3k and voltage drops to 12.5V. Stator seems to be fine, but shouldnt the voltage go slighly up when the engine is higher than idle? Also, while voltage at the stator checked out fine, the resistance between the stator coils should be 0.3-0.4ohms according to the service manual, I was measuring at 0.8 ohms across all 3 pairs. I have a really cheap meter so I thought maybe it wasnt reading right.
You really don't want to charge a m/c battery with more than 1.5 amps; at least the lead acid type
 

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funny it came down to this... i put a mini amp and two speaker in my bike last weekend. i rode everyday last week everyday so had no problems. then i was going to work the smorning after letting my bike sit for 2 days and my bike started idled for five seconds then died. tried to start it again cranked slow, fired, then immediately shut off. cranked it again this time it cranked very slow until finally getting the tickticktick ur batteries dead noise.the amp i got connects to an i pod. and i did not unhook the ipod. touched the amp and it was warm. so i think by leaving the ipod hooked up it drained my battery. or the amp is bad. i put my bike on the charger the smorning so if when i get home it fires up it was the darn ipod draining my battery. which im sure thats all it was. ill let you guys know. but my symptoms were some what similar to yours. it could be a bad battery.
 

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yeah hopefully thats all thats wrong with rustynails bike.
 

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sounds like he checked everything but the ecu and random sensors so its gutta be
 

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this is what i bought. waiting for the pics to send to my computer to show u were i mounted the speakers i just mounted the amp in the "trunk" next to my power commander. i was surprised they are actually pretty loud. but i can only hear it after 50 if im leaned down. but who leans down at 50. and at 75 when i actually lean down there no chance hearing it. but around town its great
 

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12.jpg
right side
13.jpg
leftside

i just used the mounting hardware it came with and used the Allen screw that holds the injector covers
 

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Wait. Rewind. You wired up an amp and speakers on your zed? Pics. Or it didnt happen.
We put a lot of speaker systems on sport bikes....not too tuff
 

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We put a lot of speaker systems on sport bikes....not too tuff
:+1: took me twenty mins. power ground remote speaker wire your done:eek:ccasion:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Dead battery was not the issue :mad:. Bought a new one, charged it, and got 1.5 miles down the road and the bike died again. Let it sit for 45 min, I was able to limp it home only to have it die on me when pulling into the driveway. The problem is getting a lot more frequent now. I ended up having to drive my car to Laguna Seca for the weekend, but I still had a great time. I'm over it and I'm just gonna take it to a repair shop and have them diagnose it, but I'm guessing its the ECU. I just got home last night but this morning went out and started it and let run for 10 min with no problem, but it never would die at an idle, just when under a load. I'll ride it around the neighborhood this afternoon, but with my luck, it will run fine.
 

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Dead battery was not the issue :mad:. Bought a new one, charged it, and got 1.5 miles down the road and the bike died again. Let it sit for 45 min, I was able to limp it home only to have it die on me when pulling into the driveway. The problem is getting a lot more frequent now. I ended up having to drive my car to Laguna Seca for the weekend, but I still had a great time. I'm over it and I'm just gonna take it to a repair shop and have them diagnose it, but I'm guessing its the ECU. I just got home last night but this morning went out and started it and let run for 10 min with no problem, but it never would die at an idle, just when under a load. I'll ride it around the neighborhood this afternoon, but with my luck, it will run fine.
did u look at the killswitch by the kickstand?
 

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I would see about checking(would require you to ride with a ammeter) but look at the draw on the fuel pump. Maybe it's getting hot and failing on you. Just a thought. Seems like you've checked everything else. Plus, symptom wise, it's feasable.
 

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I had a Triumph that did this. Ended up replacing the stator and voltage rectifier. When I tested the two they both checked out fine. It was only when they heated up, they would fail to charge the battery causing my problem.

Looks like it's at the shop. Hope it gets sorted out. Let us know RustyN.
 

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I would 2nd that...

I had a Triumph that did this. Ended up replacing the stator and voltage rectifier. When I tested the two they both checked out fine. It was only when they heated up, they would fail to charge the battery causing my problem.

Looks like it's at the shop. Hope it gets sorted out. Let us know RustyN.
Sounds like voltage regulator....when you rev the motor and get 12.5 volt you are actually reading the battery voltage, only with the bike's current load on the battery, lights, ignition, fuel pump, computer ecm, and God knows what else. Voltage regulators not only regulate voltage, but also more importantly amperage, too little amperage will over heat critical parts such as fuel pump....
Yes, I sell auto parts for a living, can ya tell?:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well its been a while since I've logged in here, and thinking it was hopeless to keep throwing money at an unknown issue, I dropped it off at the shop last week to have them diagnose it. They put it on their dyno hoping to recreate the issue but couldn't. The mechanic pulled the fuel line and said that it had definitely been kinked at one time, and that there's a good possibility it's restricting fuel flow when it heats to a certain temperature. This would make sense because the very first time it died on me was about 2 days after I had pulled the gas tank off for the first time. Guessing I kinked it when putting the tank back on. I also had the shop send the injectors out to be cleaned and flow tested.

Then I just logged in and saw a message from another forum member who has had the same exact issue for over a year, only his was throwing an FI code when it died, while mine does not. He ended up replacing the ECU and voltage regulator and this has solved his problem. On my bike the ECU seems to properly report error codes, because when I start unplugging stick coils or sensors, the FI light comes on. I really don't believe that I'm having an electrical issue.

I should have it back some time next week. New fuel line is in the mail. I'll give it a test when I get it back and let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
make sure they know the fuel line is routed towards the front of the bike. I had a similiar issue and it was the fuel line collapsing. It looks like it will route fine towards the back of the bike. For giggles I routed it towards the front like the parts fiche picture below and its an animal again.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2003-kawasaki-z1000-zr1000a/o/m149288#sch298746
Well ****....

Now you really have me wondering. I don't have the bike here because it's still at the shop (injectors should be back from ultrasonic cleaning this week) so I can't take a look at it. But I want to say I think it was routed towards the rear. All I know is when I had the back of the fuel tank propped up I could see the line and it didn't look kinked, but when I lowered the tank you couldn't see the line at all.

I got the new fuel line in the mail today, and I will be installing it myself. I know it feels a LOT more rigid than the old one. Look's like it's ended up costing me about $700 to fix a $90 problem :dontknow: At least the entire fuel system will brand new.... If i'm still having the issue after this then FML.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
PROBLEM FIXED:

I got it back from the shop yesterday. Today I put 145 miles on it, mostly all freeway miles with zero issues. Actually it seems to pull a little bit harder than it ever did, especially in 6th gear.

As member conig stated 2 posts previous to this one, make sure I have the fuel line routed correctly. I didn't and the shop made the same mistake. I can't blame them because logically that's how it seems it should go. I replaced it with a brand new fuel line and routed it correctly towards the FRONT of the tank. It was actually a lot harder to put on this way but like I said before, I have no issues now. Also the injectors were sent out to be cleaned and #4 had a bad spray pattern and low flow rate. Cleaned and good as new now. Even with the bad injector it pulled 120.6 WHP on the dyno. TIME FOR MODS NOW! I want to thank everyone that helped with this, even though I have almost $900 into it including the new fuel pump and the tow I had to get the first time it broke down on me 40 miles from home. At least the entire fuel delivery system is brand new. Anyone need a fuel pump with 4k miles on it? I'll give you a good deal!
 

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Reviving an old thread. I have similar symptoms to this. I was out riding some twisties the other day banked over in one rolling onto the throttle when it started misfiring. Could have been dangerous if i had been into the corner a little hotter. Anyway, it got progressively worse above 3000rpm but idled fine. When i eventually stopped, i heard a hissing from the tank. Popped the cap and the air lock released. Ran fine after that. I've blown out the cap a bit and taken it apart a few times. Debating whether or not to replace it.
 

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I’m having very similar symptoms as you and others who decided to start their own thread. The main differences are that my bike (2003 z1000) will stutter, act like it’s hitting a limiter around 6000 rpm in all gears. Eventually I’ll find a sweet spot in either 2nd or 5th gear to pass this rpm and all of a sudden the power comes back fully all the way to redline, honestly the bike almost ran away from me the first time it happened! Once It passes 6000 while in gear 1 time it usually will continue to pass it but definitely has less power in the 5000-6500 range. Thank you for following up I will test these things out and see if I can fix my “new” to me gen 1!!
 
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