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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I'm at my wit's end here. I have an '03 Z1K with really low miles that I bought about 3 months ago, have put 2500 miles on it but about 500 miles ago I started having this intermittent issue. Everything will be going fine, then I notice the power start to drop. Almost feels like you've hit some strong head winds when on the freeway. Give it more fuel and it loses more power before it starts surging and sputtering then it eventually just dies. Sometimes I can get 5 miles after I first notice it, sometimes I can only get 1/2 mile. The lights stay on after it dies. You can get the bike started but it will only run if you feather the throttle and obviously runs like **** then just dies. Just seems like its not getting the fuel it should. Let it cool for 15min and the bike will start and run fine for maybe a minute. Let it cool for 1-2hrs and the bike will start right back up and run for who knows how long I ran a bottle of injector cleaner through it thinking maybe I had a clogged injector Here is a list of the other things that have been checked or replaced:

Fuel pump: replaced last weekend thinking this was the issue; it wasnt. Gas tank has a little rust on the walls but cant see any sediment floating in the gas

Fuel pump relay: I can hear it clicking on when key is turned

Stator: checked voltage across the 3 leads. ~30V at idle, >50V at 4kRPM

Spark plugs: checked; all 4 looked brand new

Voltage rectifier: battery is staying charged (except for when I killed it yesterday repeatedly cranking it over) so I dont think this is the problem. However manual says to check resistance across the pins. I get about 220 ohms on all pairs, swich the leads and I get about 30 ohms. Manual says one way should be 10x or more the other way.

Electrical connections and grounds: made sure all were free of corrosion and that grounds have good contact. Sure I could have missed something here, but overall the bike is really clean for how old it is

Injectors: put a screwdriver to all 4 and listened, they all seem to be clicking at a regular interval


The bike is bone stock with the exception of some aftermarket turn signals I installed when I got it. I was supposed to ride it to Laguna Seca today, but that ain't gonna happen. After I replaced the fuel pump I rode it all week with no issue. Go to the pet store last night and it died on me. :mad:. I pretty much do all my work myself, and I'm to the point where I want to take it to a shop and say, "I dont care how much it costs, just fix it," but since I cant recreate the issue at will, it would just be wasted money. I'm humbly begging the community for some input. Thanks in advance.
 

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Well I'm at my wit's end here. I have an '03 Z1K with really low miles that I bought about 3 months ago, have put 2500 miles on it but about 500 miles ago I started having this intermittent issue. Everything will be going fine, then I notice the power start to drop. Almost feels like you've hit some strong head winds when on the freeway. Give it more fuel and it loses more power before it starts surging and sputtering then it eventually just dies. Sometimes I can get 5 miles after I first notice it, sometimes I can only get 1/2 mile. The lights stay on after it dies. You can get the bike started but it will only run if you feather the throttle and obviously runs like **** then just dies. Just seems like its not getting the fuel it should. Let it cool for 15min and the bike will start and run fine for maybe a minute. Let it cool for 1-2hrs and the bike will start right back up and run for who knows how long I ran a bottle of injector cleaner through it thinking maybe I had a clogged injector Here is a list of the other things that have been checked or replaced:

Fuel pump: replaced last weekend thinking this was the issue; it wasnt. Gas tank has a little rust on the walls but cant see any sediment floating in the gas

Fuel pump relay: I can hear it clicking on when key is turned

Stator: checked voltage across the 3 leads. ~30V at idle, >50V at 4kRPM

Spark plugs: checked; all 4 looked brand new

Voltage rectifier: battery is staying charged (except for when I killed it yesterday repeatedly cranking it over) so I dont think this is the problem. However manual says to check resistance across the pins. I get about 220 ohms on all pairs, swich the leads and I get about 30 ohms. Manual says one way should be 10x or more the other way.

Electrical connections and grounds: made sure all were free of corrosion and that grounds have good contact. Sure I could have missed something here, but overall the bike is really clean for how old it is

Injectors: put a screwdriver to all 4 and listened, they all seem to be clicking at a regular interval


The bike is bone stock with the exception of some aftermarket turn signals I installed when I got it. I was supposed to ride it to Laguna Seca today, but that ain't gonna happen. After I replaced the fuel pump I rode it all week with no issue. Go to the pet store last night and it died on me. :mad:. I pretty much do all my work myself, and I'm to the point where I want to take it to a shop and say, "I dont care how much it costs, just fix it," but since I cant recreate the issue at will, it would just be wasted money. I'm humbly begging the community for some input. Thanks in advance.
long shot but your fuel tank breather may be clogged. or have u looked at the air filter a rodent may have gotten in there from sitting for so long. try to take of and clean the tank/ replace the fuel lines or check them
 

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long shot but your fuel tank breather may be clogged. or have u looked at the air filter a rodent may have gotten in there from sitting for so long. try to take of and clean the tank/ replace the fuel lines or check them
i just re read your post and i think your defiantly getting clogged some where. i dont know if our bikes have fuel filters (they must). check that out. good luck though. let me know what it was if your figure it out
 

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Had this same problem and my fuel line was getting pinched. I was missing some parts for the tank so it moved quit a bit and was pinching the line. I agree change fuel like and check valves
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Forgot to add that. The fuel breather line is not clogged or kinked. I'm pretty sure there's no vapor lock going on either. I've opened the fuel cap right after it died and no whoosh of air going in. Won't run with the cap off either. The fuel line also looked good and I blew it out with the air compressor.

The fuel line doesnt appear to be getting pinched. I even cut off the rubber outer (then zip-tied it back on) to inspect the nylon line and took it to a friend who knows FI systems better than me, he said the fuel line looked fine. I really didnt want to have to spend $90 on an 8" line, but if I have to, then I have to.

I cleaned the air filter. It want even really dirty, but I still cleaned it.

The rust was mostly right where the fuel pump slides into the tank. I could see a couple of tiny spots on the top of the inside of the tank (when its upside down). Think this could be the problem? Its just odd that it wont run, let it sit for 2 hrs, it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
i just re read your post and i think your defiantly getting clogged some where. i dont know if our bikes have fuel filters (they must). check that out. good luck though. let me know what it was if your figure it out

Yeah theres a fuel filter. It's built into the pump and cant even be inspected. So instead of replacing a $10 part, you have to spend $274 + shipping on a fuel pump if you think the filter's clogged. Kawasaki must be really proud of their parts
 

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Sounds like an issue I ran into on my dirtbike - ended up being the air filter being ripped off. These symptoms could come from both the air filter being jammed up or a hole being in it - almost like you're trying to cruise around with the choke on (obviously only on a bike with a carb).

If you look and it looks fine, could easily be a clogged fuel line / bad fuel filter.
 

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Yeah theres a fuel filter. It's built into the pump and cant even be inspected. So instead of replacing a $10 part, you have to spend $274 + shipping on a fuel pump if you think the filter's clogged. Kawasaki must be really proud of their parts
is the bike running too hot? ive seen bike shut off when they get too hot. i think anything over 220 is too hot. sorry to hear your got the bad apple by the way
 

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how do the rubber boots look going from the carb too motor any cracks? or did the clamps loosen on any of the boots check that out
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
is the bike running too hot? ive seen bike shut off when they get too hot. i think anything over 220 is too hot. sorry to hear your got the bad apple by the way
Thanks for your sympathies. No it doesnt run too hot. Thermostat opens at about 140 degrees, fan comes on at 215. Ive never seen the bike hit over 218 and that was in sit and go traffic for 30 min on a 90 degree day. Cruising around at 40mph+ it runs at about 155 degrees. 2 weeks ago I let it idle in my driveway for an hour and a half, thinking this problem only happens when something heats up. It purred like a sewing machine the whole time.


how do the rubber boots look going from the carb too motor any cracks? or did the clamps loosen on any of the boots check that out
I just went out and checked. All tight and the boots look like they're brand new.
 

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wow im kind of out of ideas. i hope x glider or htech sees this im sure they will have a few more ideas. good luck though sorry i couldnt help:dontknow:
 

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one more try. loose battery conections or a bad ground. i feel like because its so intermittent it must be electrical connection some where. but when u let it cool of it starts weird. im pluzzed man
 

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this is from service manual pdf for your symptoms....
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Stick coil wiring trouble
Stick coil not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
Camshaft postion trouble
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Stick coil trouble​
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:​
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner O-ring damaged
Air cleaner duct loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Throttle body assy holder loose
Fuel to injector insufficient (DFI)
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged​
Fuel pump trouble (DFI)
hope this helps... heres a link to the smpdf as well...
http://z1000.riderdestination.com/albums/Emails/Z1000_Shop_Manual.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
one more try. loose battery conections or a bad ground. i feel like because its so intermittent it must be electrical connection some where. but when u let it cool of it starts weird. im pluzzed man
No worries man, I appreciate your help. I've checked literally every wire with a bolt attached to it that I could find. I'm beginning to think either the wiring harness is messed up and has a broken wire in it somewhere, or my ECU is f-ed. However the ECU does not flash any codes (and yes the light works). I did check for any stored codes and there was one. Code 15, atmospheric pressure sensor, but if that actually fails the ECU will default to atmospheric pressure at 760torrs, and will continue to run according to the service manual. However like I said this is a stored code and not an active one.
 

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is battery good & fully charged? have seen bad or weak batt make cars & bikes do crazy things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
this is from service manual pdf for your symptoms....
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Stick coil wiring trouble
Stick coil not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
Camshaft postion trouble
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Stick coil trouble​
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:​
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner O-ring damaged
Air cleaner duct loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Throttle body assy holder loose
Fuel to injector insufficient (DFI)
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged​
Fuel pump trouble (DFI)
hope this helps... heres a link to the smpdf as well...
http://z1000.riderdestination.com/albums/Emails/Z1000_Shop_Manual.pdf

Thanks htech. I have a question. If the problem lies in either the DFI (with the exception of the fuel pump) or ignition system, shouldn't I get a code from the ECU? Same with the camshaft position or crankshaft position sensors? The first time I had this issue about a month ago, I had done a 160 mile ride and I stopped and filled up with fuel, smoked a cigarette, and when I started the bike it died about 5 seconds later. Every other time it seems to happen when I;m driving down the street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
is battery good & fully charged? have seen bad or weak batt make cars & bikes do crazy things.
I ran it dead when I got stranded yesterday. When I got it home I put it on the charger, 12V @ 6amps (battery was only drawing 5 amps tho), and took only a little over an hour to charge. Started the bike to test the stator and it idled fine/reved to 4k fine. Threw my gear on to test it out, and as soon as I let the clutch out it would die. Got angry, went to bed, woke up at 6 this morning and started the bike, let it warm, got on it and went only about 1 mile but no issues.

The battery could very possibly be pretty old. And interesting thing, at idle battery voltage reads 13.5V. Rev the engine to 3k and voltage drops to 12.5V. Stator seems to be fine, but shouldnt the voltage go slighly up when the engine is higher than idle? Also, while voltage at the stator checked out fine, the resistance between the stator coils should be 0.3-0.4ohms according to the service manual, I was measuring at 0.8 ohms across all 3 pairs. I have a really cheap meter so I thought maybe it wasnt reading right.
 

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yes should be around 14volts. could be a bad regulator/rectifier. not sure on bikes but on cars, i have a bad ecu cause it not to store fault codes. from your symptoms, seems like an elictrical component or switch is getting hot & breaking down or even a bad wire somewhere. while it was running i would try to wiggle the harness or tap on ecu to see if it cuts off. wish i could help more. hard to diagnose without being there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yes should be around 14volts. could be a bad regulator/rectifier. not sure on bikes but on cars, i have a bad ecu cause it not to store fault codes. from your symptoms, seems like an elictrical component or switch is getting hot & breaking down or even a bad wire somewhere. while it was running i would try to wiggle the harness or tap on ecu to see if it cuts off. wish i could help more. hard to diagnose without being there.
What is the possibility of this just being a weak or old battery? For one thing, before I charged it last night, it would always take 2-3 cranks before the bike would start. Now that the battery is fully charged I can just hit the starter and immediately let off and it starts. Also I just went out and double checked. At idle battery reads 13.5V, 4K RMPs it reads 14.2V. I gonna go out and buy another battery right now, but I still have to wait several hours for it to charge.
 

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it could be the culprit. i have seen bad batteries have crazy effects on cars & bikes. let us know if a batt. fixes it. fingers crossed. :eek:ccasion:
 
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