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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had my bike for 3 years as an everyday commuter living in LA and I always said I would finally lower it so I could flatfoot it. I never got around to it in LA, but I would love for once to be able to back pedal this stupid, heavy beast into a park spot up an incline. :) Now that I'm back on the East Coast with all this slippery road salt, I nearly dumped it trying to parallel park because my tippy-toe slipped as I was trying to back up. :(

I had the same problem with my 2006 Z1000. At one point, I got so fed up and got rid of the 06 Z1000 and got a lower-standing Ducati Monster S4RS. It was great for a while, but I surely did miss the bulletproof ways (and larger tank) of the trusty Z1000. So, I got rid of the Duc and got my present 2008 Z1000. This time, I'm lowering it! Finally, before I get pissed off and do something irrational again! :)

Plus, these are fully adjustable. So, I can take it back up to stock if I want and I can adjust them with a simple twist of the wrist.
 

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I've had my bike for 3 years as an everyday commuter living in LA and I always said I would finally lower it so I could flatfoot it. I never got around to it in LA, but I would love for once to be able to back pedal this stupid, heavy beast into a park spot up an incline. :) Now that I'm back on the East Coast with all this slippery road salt, I nearly dumped it trying to parallel park because my tippy-toe slipped as I was trying to back up. :(

I had the same problem with my 2006 Z1000. At one point, I got so fed up and got rid of the 06 Z1000 and got a lower-standing Ducati Monster S4RS. It was great for a while, but I surely did miss the bulletproof ways (and larger tank) of the trusty Z1000. So, I got rid of the Duc and got my present 2008 Z1000. This time, I'm lowering it! Finally, before I get pissed off and do something irrational again! :)

Plus, these are fully adjustable. So, I can take it back up to stock if I want and I can adjust them with a simple twist of the wrist.
I recognize the irretation! Had the same problem with my old Derbi Senda 125 R that i had when I was younger. I barley flatfot sitting on it and as soon as i tried to back up I was on my toes. Luckely my Z1000 -09 it lower than my old Derbi. Almost so low that I'm considering making my Z a bit higher...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pictures - Before and After

You can use my rear hugger or exhaust as a reference to see the results. We cut the kickstand because Soupy's is still waiting to make a template for the 2007-2009 generation Z1000 adjustable kickstand.

Anyway...
 

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Do you realize how much the geometry is going to be thrown off?
Your bike is going to handle like a back yard chopper after dropping the rear.
Be careful because it will turn like a mack truck after only a few degree's of change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Of course I knew that. But, it was time to lower it. I just cannot chance dumping it again slipping the tip of my boot on road salt or gravel as I try to maneuver around. I love my bike and don't want to switch to a lower stance ride. I didn't have to deal with the road obstacles back when I was in LA. But, here on the east coast is another story. They salt the roads ON PURPOSE. :(

If I need to do a track day, I can easily raise it back up with a few twists.
 

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Understandable....Whatever it takes to ride on safely..thought you just thought it would look COOL.
If you do drop the rear id say soften the front too to get the bike back in balance as far as handling is concerned...Just my opinion i care about all my fellow bikers out there.....Barry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I hear you, brother. I hear FL is notorious for all the low-riding, stretched out Busa's and such. :)

I'm still testing out this configuration to see how I like it. So far, I gotta say those fears about ruining the handling have not been as bad as I expected. I'm no canyon-carving Rossi or Spies by any means. But, the turn in has been ok for me. Plus, I do have increased stability at higher speeds as the trade off for compromising lean angles. I can honestly say I'm enjoying this added level of comfort and confidence I have being able to control the weight of the bike with two feet on the ground almost flatfooted now. Backing into a parking spot never felt so good. Parallel parking this beast used to be a nightmare. :)
 

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i tippy toed mr zrx for 4 years. loved that bike but was heavy and awkard when parking or stopping. i'm 5'6" and short legged. 29 length pants.the lower weight of the z helps me consiserably. plus my boots are thick. not going to lower mine partly because of what barry says and partly because it drags already.i ride with a couple of cbr1000rr's and need all the clearance i can get. they used some weird stuff here on the roads 2weeks ago,it isn't all gone yet. i feel for you, bud. ride careful, no more scuffs.:screwy::screwy::screwy:
 

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Lowering Z1000

Whenever my wife has to tippy toe over a street gutter or sloped pavement she almost falls over. Today it happened and without sliders (which is the next project). So now I have to lower the 2008 Z1000. I had read somewhere in the past about equalizing the front shocks in relationship to the amount of lowering taken out in the rear. The change in geometry in the rear can be compensated (somewhat) by simultaneously lowering the front. The ratio I remember was to lower the front by 1/2 of that lowered in the rear, not a perfect compensation but better than nothing. After much searching I can't find any other recommendation as to how to approximate the front change in relationship to the rear change for the best results. Any thoughts or experience before I lower the rear and have to just guess at the front? Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Whenever my wife has to tippy toe over a street gutter or sloped pavement she almost falls over. Today it happened and without sliders (which is the next project). So now I have to lower the 2008 Z1000. I had read somewhere in the past about equalizing the front shocks in relationship to the amount of lowering taken out in the rear. The change in geometry in the rear can be compensated (somewhat) by simultaneously lowering the front. The ratio I remember was to lower the front by 1/2 of that lowered in the rear, not a perfect compensation but better than nothing. After much searching I can't find any other recommendation as to how to approximate the front change in relationship to the rear change for the best results. Any thoughts or experience before I lower the rear and have to just guess at the front? Thank you
People like to complain about changing the geometry of the bike as if they are superstar canyon carvers or the next Rossi. Truth be told, unless your wife is racing on the streets with the absolute need to lean deep left-right-left to make quick sharp turns at high speeds, I would not be concerned with it. In fact, by lowering only the rear you will gain the added benefit of MORE stability because less weight is on the front end. This also reduces her chances of having a tank-slapper at higher speeds because, again, less weight on the pivot joint of the structure (the steering head).

I would recommend you lower the bike as I have done to your wife's comfort level and then let her test ride it for a few weeks to see if she likes it. I bet you she will LOVE the added confidence knowing she can stop anywhere without worrying about dropping it. If after test riding she thinks it feels awful around a turn, THEN consider lowering the front end. But, I suspect she will be happy being able to simply touch the ground and be done with it.

Let us know how it turns out and good luck. :D
 

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You can use my rear hugger or exhaust as a reference to see the results. We cut the kickstand because Soupy's is still waiting to make a template for the 2007-2009 generation Z1000 adjustable kickstand.

Anyway...
So, does Soupy have the adjustable kickstand for yr. 2007 Z1000 yet?
 
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