Slipper clutch

15903 Views 42 Replies 10 Participants Last post by rcannon, 18 d ago

Cgreen

Discussion Starter · Nov 8, 2017

So I hear the 2017 Z has a slipper clutch. Also hear the design of this clutch makes for a much lighter pull at the lever. From what I'm gathering the engine is the same as my '15 so I'm looking into this as an upgrade. I need to compare some pictures of the parts, part numbers and then find out how to get this clutch here in the states. Anyone else thinking about this?

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Cgreen

Discussion Starter · #21 · Nov 12, 2017

Thanks for the clutch info. It's priceless. After I get through two birthdays and Christmas for my kids, all from December 22 to January 11th, I'll start ordering the parts for the clutch. I've got my list and checking it twice.

As a side note I do plan to buy the Black Widow system this coming spring. If it happens as I hope I'll post picks and a YouTube video.

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Scvette

· #22 · Nov 12, 2017

Cgreen said:
Thanks for the clutch info. It's priceless. After I get through two birthdays and Christmas for my kids, all from December 22 to January 11th, I'll start ordering the parts for the clutch. I've got my list and checking it twice.

As a side note I do plan to buy the Black Widow system this coming spring. If it happens as I hope I'll post picks and a YouTube video.

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You better hurry on that black widow exhaust,I might get it before you! I have a email into them asking a few questions,I want to buy it,but I just don't know if I want to be the guy to try it out and not like it,as someone told me,it's not that much cheaper than the Akro,and that one is proven.. It would be a bummer to buy it and it shows up looking like its from China,cheap steel,bad welds. I'll see what they say and then decide. I hope they discourage me or my wife will be mad at me for sure. :surprise:

Cgreen

Discussion Starter · #23 · Nov 12, 2017

Scvette said:
You better hurry on that black widow exhaust,I might get it before you! I have a email into them asking a few questions,I want to buy it,but I just don't know if I want to be the guy to try it out and not like it,as someone told me,it's not that much cheaper than the Akro,and that one is proven.. It would be a bummer to buy it and it shows up looking like its from China,cheap steel,bad welds. I'll see what they say and then decide. I hope they discourage me or my wife will be mad at me for sure. :surprise:

I did a little research on this company and couldn't find anything bad said besides some complained it was loud. But the Ackro system is a single system and I really want duals. I was originally getting Ackro 4 to 2 headers ($700?) with Competition Werkes cans ($700?) for an approximate cost of $1,400. Yoshimura cans would add $400 to that, ouch! I'm not too worried about not having what everyone else is running, name brands or maximum power otherwise I would be riding a GSXR dripping in Yoshi parts. I can get a similar system from BW for around the $700 mark. I found the all stainless 200 mm system is the one I like the most so if you don't want to have the same system as me I included a picture of it for you. I also have a picture of my other bike, a ZX7R with unkown brand 4-1 head pipes, modified mid pipe, cut down titanium Yoshi can off a gen 1 busa and all wrapped in black header wrap. With my carb, ignition and exhaust mods it laid down 133 hp. All that said about hp numbers my *** Dyno will tell you the Z1 is stronger everywhere but maybe the last 1000 rpms, so I think the Z1 makes plenty of power for a street bike. I wouldn't mind a little more on top but will not sacrifice mid range to get it. If the BW system is a total fail for quality or screws up the power curve I'll post my results and it up for sale.

Look at how BW uses cones to increase the primary diameter just a few inches from the head. This tells me they must have been doing some research in their head pipe design. Otherwise wise they could have just ran straight pipe out the back of the bike, polished it all pretty and slapped a price tag on it.

All the power is made at the head pipe anyhow and the silencer is just there to silence the exhaust note. The goal is to control sound without screwing up what the head pipe makes in gains. If the BW head pipe isn't to my satisfaction I can always just swap in the Ackro 4-2 head pipe and see how that does.

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Jango

· #24 · Jan 6, 2019

Problem while decelerating fast

Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum but really hoping to get answers to the issue I’m facing. I have 2013 z1000. The rear wheel hops/jumps up and down causing the whole bike to vibrate aggressively when I decelerate fast. I control it via either increasing the throttle a little and then decreasing again, and also sometimes blipping the clutch. But I am not sure how to fix this problem. I got the chain lubed up pretty well because I thought there’s something wrong there and it feels like the issue is reduced but still it happens sometime especiially upon decelerating. Please guide. Thanks

JohnJuan

· #25 · Jan 7, 2019

Jango said:
Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum but really hoping to get answers to the issue I’m facing. I have 2013 z1000. The rear wheel hops/jumps up and down causing the whole bike to vibrate aggressively when I decelerate fast. I control it via either increasing the throttle a little and then decreasing again, and also sometimes blipping the clutch. But I am not sure how to fix this problem. I got the chain lubed up pretty well because I thought there’s something wrong there and it feels like the issue is reduced but still it happens sometime especiially upon decelerating. Please guide. Thanks

Jango, Please start a new thread with this question. The '13 did not come with a slipper clutch.

rcannon

· #26 · Jan 9, 2019

Jango said:
Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum but really hoping to get answers to the issue I’m facing. I have 2013 z1000. The rear wheel hops/jumps up and down causing the whole bike to vibrate aggressively when I decelerate fast. I control it via either increasing the throttle a little and then decreasing again, and also sometimes blipping the clutch. But I am not sure how to fix this problem. I got the chain lubed up pretty well because I thought there’s something wrong there and it feels like the issue is reduced but still it happens sometime especiially upon decelerating. Please guide. Thanks

Jango, before you hurt yourself....

Reactions: 1

arsenal

· #27 · Jan 31, 2020

Hi everyone,
I have the 2014 model(engine zrt00de), and I'm experiencing some annoying issues with the clutch(thread Z1000 clutch).
Now I'm considering replacing it with the newer slipper clutch from model '16 or '17 z1000.
Just wanted to double check this: is it just a 'plug and play' operation, without any adaptations needed?
Also for anyone who has done this recently, can you help me with a parts list? I saw the one in the previous posts, but don't know if it's still relevant.
Thanks!

comfysofa

· #28 · Jan 31, 2020

Yep. I've done the mod myself to mine a couple of months back.... I tend to reside on a UK forum where I posted a walk through... Its the one of the best mods you'll ever do... Transforms the bike.... Everything (engine wise) is just.... Smoother...

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arsenal

· #29 · Jan 31, 2020

comfysofa said:
Yep. I've done the mod myself to mine a couple of months back.... I tend to reside on a UK forum where I posted a walk through... Its the one of the best mods you'll ever do... Transforms the bike.... Everything (engine wise) is just.... Smoother...

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Could you please send me a link to that forum so I can follow the walk through and check the required parts?

comfysofa

· #30 · Jan 31, 2020

Pmd you.

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arsenal

· #31 · Jan 31, 2020

comfysofa said:
Pmd you.

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thanks a lot!

andrewmichael335

· #32 · Mar 17, 2020

There's a 4 part video on YouTube where a guy goes through the assembly of the slipper clutch install on the 2014 z1000 and it looks like you don't even really need to take the whole basket or atheist everything out. From what I saw u just need to take the friction plates out and replace the hub clutch center and a plate clutch the double steel ring and the slide all the friction plates back on and then the main clutch plate with the three springs and bolts. I'm not sure if I'm missing anything from the video I gather there's only three parts I need to buy and install not sure if I'm right on not having to remove the whole basket now that I think of it do you need to remove the basket so you can basically dump all the friction plates out doesn't look like there's much room to reach a finger all the way in there to slide the frition plates out. If anyone can give me any information on how its done or if I'm missing anything it would be much appreciated.

rcannon

· #33 · Mar 22, 2020

You are correct. The tough part is that center nut. It holds the inner hub as well as the basket. That has to come loose. Even though you dont remove the outer basket, that big nut holds it, too.

You are also correct in that you cant use your fingers for all the clutch plates. I have an "L" shaped hook tool I use. It's not difficult. You could use a bent coat hanger. They stick together with the oil that they are covered in, but not seriously.

andrewmichael335

· #34 · Mar 22, 2020

I have never done a clutch on a motorcycle so this would be the first I have read and watched a tone of videos and it seems pretty simple plus I have the diagram my manual doesn't really go to much into taking the clutch apart. I'm really stuck between buying the slipper clutch kit or buying a magura hydraulic clutch system for my z1000 can't find a lot of reviews or feedback on the magura hydro clutch I don't know if anyone on here has tried one out there about 150 dollars for the whole kit comes put together just remove your clutch cable and slide the magura in place. I'm trying to see if they sell a slipper clutch kit or if I'm going to have to buy all the parts Separately anyone with info on where I can get a kit and which one between the slipper clutch and mugura hydro clutch would be a better please let me know just want the bike to perform better and clutch lever to lighten up a little bit

andrewmichael335

· #35 · Mar 23, 2020

rcannon said:
I dont believe we ever posted the complete parts list for you guys.....sorry.. I should have done that.

My 2012 ninja 1000 was the first one we ever converted. I cant take credit for the parts list as that was compiled by the late, but great, Manracing....I know he would love the fact we are still finding his part list and his work, useful.

The listed prices are old, and I'll bet its more expensive, now? This list is the minimum amount of parts needed. This method lets you use a few of your older plates to save money. Obviously, the most simple and easy method would have you ordering all of the plates from the new clutch. Figure an extra 200.00, or so, if you order all new plates.

But, heres your part list:

13087-0566 Hub-Clutch $207.87
13187-0023 Plate-Clutch Operating $108.47
13089-0024 Plate-Clutch SPG COMP $8.49
16007-0711 Seat-Spring (X3) $1.77 $5.31
92145-1630 Spring (X3) $3.56 $10.68
13272-1413 Plate $7.33 (x1)
92154-1116 Bolt, 6x35 (X3) $5.13 $15.39
13089-0023 Plate, Clutch,T 2.3 $8.49 (x3)

and

2.0 plates 13089-1073 (buy three)

Also, you may want to consider a clutch cover gasket......50/50 chance of being able to re-use yours.

I hate to even call it a mod...theres no modding here. Remove your old parts and put these in. A very nice upgrade. Clutch pull is about 1/2 of what it was. Its so light, you'll think something is broken.

If you need anything else, pm me, or post it here. Like I said, I did not invent this, Jay did, but I'll help if I am able to do so.

I am thinking about doing the slipper cluth conversion im stuck between that 9r adding a magura hydraulic clutch not sure i feel the clutch will be a way better upgrade just not sure if there will be any trouble with the lubrication problem I have not drilled holes in my clutch basket this would be the first clutch I have done on a motorcycle if I go through with it I found all the parts on adeptpowersports and it comes out to around $458 dollars before taxes. I have a four part video thats on YouTube where a guy walks you through the steps it looks easy enough and from what I gather I won't even need to remove the basket from the clutch I'm just wondering other then the parts list is there anything else I will need and any advice on the difficulty I'm pretty mechanical inclined always worked on vehicals but any alive and guidance would be appreciated thank you

comfysofa

· #36 · Mar 23, 2020

Absoluteky do the slipper clutch conversion...its one of the best upgrades youll do!

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andrewmichael335

· #37 · Mar 23, 2020

You think it will be easy I have never done a clutch on a motorcycle before. I found all the parts that were listed on the forum am I going to need anything else or is everything on that list all that I need kinda wish I could find a kit with everything I will need. I have a four part video he shows you how to put everything back in the bike doesn't show how everything cam out. I just don't wanna take the cover off and stuff come flying out at me I'm pretty confident in my mechanical ability just trying to get all the info I can before I Crack it open

andrewmichael335

· #38 · Mar 24, 2020

rcannon said:
I dont believe we ever posted the complete parts list for you guys.....sorry.. I should have done that.

My 2012 ninja 1000 was the first one we ever converted. I cant take credit for the parts list as that was compiled by the late, but great, Manracing....I know he would love the fact we are still finding his part list and his work, useful.

The listed prices are old, and I'll bet its more expensive, now? This list is the minimum amount of parts needed. This method lets you use a few of your older plates to save money. Obviously, the most simple and easy method would have you ordering all of the plates from the new clutch. Figure an extra 200.00, or so, if you order all new plates.

But, heres your part list:

13087-0566 Hub-Clutch $207.87
13187-0023 Plate-Clutch Operating $108.47
13089-0024 Plate-Clutch SPG COMP $8.49
16007-0711 Seat-Spring (X3) $1.77 $5.31
92145-1630 Spring (X3) $3.56 $10.68
13272-1413 Plate $7.33 (x1)
92154-1116 Bolt, 6x35 (X3) $5.13 $15.39
13089-0023 Plate, Clutch,T 2.3 $8.49 (x3)

and

2.0 plates 13089-1073 (buy three)

Also, you may want to consider a clutch cover gasket......50/50 chance of being able to re-use yours.

I hate to even call it a mod...theres no modding here. Remove your old parts and put these in. A very nice upgrade. Clutch pull is about 1/2 of what it was. Its so light, you'll think something is broken.

If you need anything else, pm me, or post it here. Like I said, I did not invent this, Jay did, but I'll help if I am able to do so.

I found all the parts on adeptpowersports.com comes out to $507.36 thats with the outer clutch cover gasket. Do these replace everything in the clutch basket from the video I watched I feel like the guy said there was only three things he had to replace im just asking because my bike has really low miles and seeing if I can just order the parts I need to switch out

Auszrider

· #39 · 21 d ago

2

Bit of a thread dig I know, but I just cant find the answer im after. Will the 2017 slipper clutch fit the earlier 2011 engine. I can only find mention of the 2016 assembly and out of the parts required the Hub and the clutch plate change part numbers between the 2016 and 2017 model.

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rcannon

· #40 · 19 d ago

Yes, it will work on any z1000 that is 2010 or newer.

As far as what plates you need, order everything that's on the list and you'll have what you need.

An easier and cheaper way if doing this is to watch ebay and find a complete clutch for a Versus 1000, 2017 or newer ninja 1000, or a z900/900rs.

A clutch assembly from any of those bikes works. Yo can recognize the correct part by seeing the 3 springs and not the 5 springs the older bike has.

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