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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

my z1000 has been doing this thing where I twist the throttle and the revs go up really quickly, and it basically redlines and then I feel the engine speed up and it kind of rattles and shoots off and even when holding throttle at same point the revs go back down but then it continues to accelerate in a more linear way.

when I want to overtake at higher speeds I have to drop down a gear and smash the throttle and let it build up and shoot past people at way faster than what I want to because it won鈥檛 accelerate in a linear way, and it usually sounds like Im aggressively revbombing people 馃檲

I鈥檝e had a search around, and the closest examples of other people talking about it, people seem to think it鈥檚 the clutch.

I鈥檝e told my mechanic because I noticed it a little while back but he rode it a little and didn鈥檛 notice it. But, he didn鈥檛 have a chance to get the revs very high or ride it like this.

It seems to be getting a little worse, I noticed while riding it today.

the way the revs kind of bomb is a bit like you鈥檙e holding in the clutch and revving the piss out of it.

Say I鈥檓 riding along at 100kmph and I twist the throttle it hits around 5k then shoots up to redline and bombs, then either sits there while it鈥檚 accelerating, or the revs go all the way back to like 6k and then accelerates in a linear way.

I don鈥檛 get how it would be the clutch because it鈥檚 happening in basically any gear when I鈥檓 not even touching the clutch, as well as when I have to drop it down a gear to accelerate harder.

can anyone understand what I mean and confirm that it鈥檚 likely a clutch issue, and please explain to me how that works?

thanks 馃檹
 

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The way tou describe it, it really is your clutch.
You could start by checking your your clutch cable, give it some more slack and test if your clutch still works and if that solves your issue.

Or open up the clutch, in spect your clutch pack by measuring the pack height (if not within tolorance specs replace frictionplates) and visually check if your steelplates have burn marks(if so replace those aswell).

I had a ratteling noise when riding off from a full stop in 1st gear. My steel plates showed burn marks and were probably warped. I upgraded my clutch with A slipperclutch and replaced all plates.

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This is a bad clutch. Often times a clutch wont slip until it heats up.

With that said, I would find a different mechanic. There isnt any need to test the bike once you told me the info in the first paragraph. Your mechanic either missed this dead simple diagnosis, or doesnt want to do the work. Neither is acceptible.

Clitch plates are fairly simple to change. On this bike, it's easier than changing spark plugs. You'll need an 8mm socket and a 10mm. That's about it.

Buy OEM Kawasaki plates. The aftermarket stuff is garbage. Often times a person only needs to replace the fiber plates, although this might not be true in your case. A slipping g clutch creates a bunch of heat. That heat can damage the metal plates as well. That thought makes it hard to order parts before you start the job.

Heres the exact procedure to change the plates.

 
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