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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rear brake on my 2013 Z1000 requires a LOT of pressure to get any braking effect. There is no sign of air in the lines so is this a design issue [master cylinder piston size etc]? If so, can anyone recommend an alternative master cylinder or other solution.
 

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The rear brake on my 2013 Z1000 requires a LOT of pressure to get any braking effect. There is no sign of air in the lines so is this a design issue [master cylinder piston size etc]? If so, can anyone recommend an alternative master cylinder or other solution.
Is that not just a typical rear brake response, I never expect much of a reaction from a rear brake on a bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is that not just a typical rear brake response, I never expect much of a reaction from a rear brake on a bike.
No mate, this has to be the worst rear brake of any bike I've owned or ridden. Even at a fast walking pace, it is almost impossible to lock the rear up! Just as well it doesn't have ABS as it would probably never need to activate.
 

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Probably bleed the lines would be my bet if you haven done so. You will need a one way valve with a the for best results.
But like he said take it straight to your bike shop for a warranty claim but considering it is a braking component they may not cover it under warranty.


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No mate, this has to be the worst rear brake of any bike I've owned or ridden. Even at a fast walking pace, it is almost impossible to lock the rear up! Just as well it doesn't have ABS as it would probably never need to activate.
Then you have an issue, my rear brake is fairly good (just checked it), I only ever really use the rear brake during some cornering/manoeuvring as I've always regarded the bake brake as a stabilising mechanism not a stopping one but even in a straight line it was fairly affective just now. I always have my brakes done by the dealer as its the one thing I don't want going wrong on a trip!! is your reservoir sealed properly? are the pistons in the calliper working properly? are the pads OK? are the brake lines in good condition is the disc ok? is there any residue on the disc? Dont forget on a brand new machine the brakes will take a little time to "bed in".
 

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My rear brake on my 2010 is the same way, very weak but I don't use the back brake any how.
 

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I installed speed bleeders and changed the fluid.
Made a significant improvement.
Noticed thick black residue when bleeding the rear others have reported this also.
 

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My rear brake is not super flash either, the feel is not super great, but I lock it up regularly, hate the abs kicking in, waiting for the slide and then dah dah dah dah dah dah dah dah dah
 

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I have noticed that most of the 2000 and later sport bikes have weaker rear brakes, my thought is that they are doing it to keep people from skidding the rear tire and crashing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys. As there is no air in the lines and pads, disks etc all look OK and no leakage past the master cylinder seals, I suspect that it may be a design issue but I'll take it in to the dealer and see what they have to say. I don't use the rear brake much but I do want it to be there when I need to use it.
 

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I use my rear brake as often as possible,i use my bike for commuting mostly and do all service myself,a rear. Brake job is cheap and easy compared to front brakes.
Twice the parts and cost.
 

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Brake pads are rated by a two letter friction rating such as "GG" or "HH" or "FF" There are a bunch of other letter ratings as well, but I'm havign a hard time finding the full list. HH is the strongest and GG is more to the weaker end of the scale.

If you take the pads off of the front, or rear of our Ninja 1000/z 1000 you'll see the front is rates "fg" or somehting close, but the rears are "FF". Dont quote me on these exact letters. Lets just say the stock pads are WEAK! The rears are WAY down the friction list so they dont do much until you put your entire leg into it. "HH" is about as high as friction rates go, so they will lock up, or give braking performance, with much less pressure.

To keep it simple, we have really good braking parts, just lousy pads. I'v enever been a fan of full"HH" rated brakes out back as they tend to lock up easily. A set of Galfer organic "GG" pads works well on our bikes and will offer more feel and power, yet they offer good feel up to the lock-up point.

Up front I went with a set of DP "HH+" pads and they are amazing. Great feel, they run fairly quiet, and deliver at least twice the braking power of our stock pads.

You dont need lines, calipers, or master cylinders. Just good pads. I've used over 30 different types of pads between my street bikes and dirt bikes. I've never used anything as good as that dp"HH+" pad.

The front pads you want are DP Brakes Sport HH+ SuperSport Brake Pads SDP947HH

The rear Galfer pad is GLFBPK35 figure 30.00 or so for those. I found them on ebay and paid 7.00 for the set. These pads fit a lot of different sport bikes, so you can find a bargain. They also polish up the rear rotor to almost a mirror like finish. No biggie, but it looks cool.


Good luck with this. You have no idea how much of a difference this will make. However, going to ss lines with these stock pads in place is a waste of time, effort and money.

These pads are my opinion, so you might like somethign else. However, the front DP pads are far better than anything else. I've also never been an EBC pad fan, so dont be afraid to mail order to get the front pads. They are not even that expensive.
 

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yes rcannon is right, I didn't have a chance to try my new brake pad yet but other did the upgrade and it was night and day difference for braking power. We have the weakest pad and I thought the same thing about the rear brake, even with upgraded steel line it is too weak! Here's the part number for dp brake pads:
Front are HH+(SDP947HH+)
and the Rear are GG rated(DP320).
Riderdiscount one of our site sponsors carry them and got good prices
 

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check your pads. my buddy with a 07 caught a plastic bag on the highway one day and it ruined his pads. a set of new pads and he was all set
 

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I have the same model as you 2013 SE thai version. The rear brakes suck big time. To make some of the readers understand. You can be going 30km and almost have to put full pressure on the rear pedal to use it to stop, this would not be a stop skidding but a slow stop. If the front brake failed you could easily be dead.

The front brake is nothing special either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Brake pads are rated by a two letter friction rating such as "GG" or "HH" or "FF" There are a bunch of other letter ratings as well, but I'm havign a hard time finding the full list. HH is the strongest and GG is more to the weaker end of the scale.

If you take the pads off of the front, or rear of our Ninja 1000/z 1000 you'll see the front is rates "fg" or somehting close, but the rears are "FF". Dont quote me on these exact letters. Lets just say the stock pads are WEAK! The rears are WAY down the friction list so they dont do much until you put your entire leg into it. "HH" is about as high as friction rates go, so they will lock up, or give braking performance, with much less pressure.

To keep it simple, we have really good braking parts, just lousy pads. I'v enever been a fan of full"HH" rated brakes out back as they tend to lock up easily. A set of Galfer organic "GG" pads works well on our bikes and will offer more feel and power, yet they offer good feel up to the lock-up point.

Up front I went with a set of DP "HH+" pads and they are amazing. Great feel, they run fairly quiet, and deliver at least twice the braking power of our stock pads.

You dont need lines, calipers, or master cylinders. Just good pads. I've used over 30 different types of pads between my street bikes and dirt bikes. I've never used anything as good as that dp"HH+" pad.

The front pads you want are DP Brakes Sport HH+ SuperSport Brake Pads SDP947HH

The rear Galfer pad is GLFBPK35 figure 30.00 or so for those. I found them on ebay and paid 7.00 for the set. These pads fit a lot of different sport bikes, so you can find a bargain. They also polish up the rear rotor to almost a mirror like finish. No biggie, but it looks cool.


Good luck with this. You have no idea how much of a difference this will make. However, going to ss lines with these stock pads in place is a waste of time, effort and money.

These pads are my opinion, so you might like somethign else. However, the front DP pads are far better than anything else. I've also never been an EBC pad fan, so dont be afraid to mail order to get the front pads. They are not even that expensive.
Thanks for the info on the pads - that's a good point. I'm taking the bike into the dealer to check next week so will check out what the OEM pads are.
 

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just to point out that some guys ride real hard and its pointless putting the back brake on when your rear wheel is a foot off the ground!!

 
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