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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellow Ninja 1000 owners, new to the site, and just picked up my black 1000 yesterday and was able to put about 150mi on so far. A much different set up than my R1 that i moved from but looking forward to getting adjusted to it. Has anyone tried to mess with the suspension settings yet? Also, is anyone else having an issue with their feet hitting the exhaust? Im going to try a set of race pegs to see if that helps, the rubber pegs kinda weird me out. One last thing handlebar adjustment? It appears that the clip-ons are not adjustable at all, has anyone tried a different set up? Thanks for the help
 

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Yeah, I have scuffs on the heatshields in front of the exhausts.

The pegs just aren't rubber topped, they're mounted on a rubber bracket between the frame and the actual peg mount. Z1000 pegs and brackets will fit and give you completely solid pegs.

So far I've left the suspension at all factory ( middle ) settings on mine. Now that it has 1000 miles and everything has set in I think it could use a little more dampening on both ends. I just haven't had decent enough weather and a chance to play with it.

Here's what Sport Rider recommended -

Suggested Suspension Settings

Front: Spring preload - 7 turns out from full stiff; Rebound damping - 2 turns out from full stiff; Compression damping - 1 turn out from full stiff; 30mm fork tube protruding above top triple clamp. Rear: Spring preload - position 5 of 10; Rebound damping - 1 turn out from full stiff.


Ninja 1000 Test Notes and Opinions - Sport Rider Magazine

They stiffened up both ends slightly from factory and pulled the fork tubes up some. That might be a good place to start.
 

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welcome, haven't messed with mine in 8700 miles. it's a little stiff for me but i'll be 55 in 2 weeks.:screwy::screwy::screwy::welcome:
 

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I too have the Ninja 1k but the black and red version cuz it's faster.
But I'm sixty-two and I have a bunch of vertebrae that are fused, and I find it a tad harshly damped. So I've backed off my rear preload totally and eased back a bit on the damping. I've backed off fork preload as well.

But that's me and I'm a bit physically toast. But I'm going to get an aftermarket rear shock and a Spencer in Florida saddle redo. But largely it's pretty comfy. And I am happy with the power -- but wonder what gains might be found in adding aftermarket cans -- LeoV carbon fiber is tasty -- and a power commander....

Anyone added pipes or full system? What choices are out there?
 

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Pre load is not the thing to adjust to get a plusher ride. Pre load is used to get the suspension to work over its full range. Turn the pre load down all the way and you'll likely get bottoming when the suspension runs out of travel, and turn it up all the way and you'll likely getting topping, when the suspension decompresses and hits the limits of full extension. The net is you want to set your pre load up so when you're on your bike all geared up with your feet off the ground you get about an 1 to 1.2 inches of sag front and rear on a streetbike.

To soften your suspension up, you typically want to reduce the amount of compression damping. This will make the suspension more compliant to hits. With respect to rebound damping, if you soften rebound damping up you'll get a looser ride as the suspension will rebound from compression faster. Too much rebound damping and your suspension may not rebound enough between hits and pack down, which will result in a very harsh ride.

Two good articles to read are Sportrider Magazine's suspension setup guide and their troubleshooting guide.

The first sentence of the second paragraph in their setup guide reflects why asking folks on a forum what their settings are is not a good approach:

"One common misconception is that there is some magical setting that will work for every rider in every situation (and we'll be the first to admit that our suggested settings are not that wonderful setup, but rather a starting point)."
 

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I have yet to start experimenting with the suspension but I can confirm that my heels are resting on the exhaust heat shields. Overall I'm very happy with the bike. I just finished breaking the engine in and the power on this thing is awesome.
 

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Great article. Thanks Ray916MN.

I picked up my '11 Ninja 1000 two days ago and I am all smiles. Too wet to ride, so today's jobs are to remove the tank stickers, adjust the throttle cables (too much play), and put my '06 650R up for sale.
 

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Wow I'm amazed how many old guys have Ninja 1000s. How many mid life crisis can we have??? :)
PS: I'm 60 and still road race.
 

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Wow I'm amazed how many old guys have Ninja 1000s. How many mid life crisis can we have??? :)
PS: I'm 60 and still road race.
I'm 54 and an old road racer though that was many years ago. They built the bike for US didn't they? :D

It was the sportiest bike I could find and still be comfortable on. 3 back surgeries will do that to you. I sold a C-10 Concours to get mine. Funny, the Ninja is far more comfortable for me than the Connie ever was. I do miss the fairing coverage and the seat. But the performance and handling more than make up for it.
 

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guess i don't need to be on here. mines just a z. but i do have a full race muzzy complete exhaust, PCv, and bcm filter. gained 10 hp with a dynotune. traction is a problem now.:screwy::screwy::screwy:
 

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Came off a tuned 06 Busa...

onto the ninja 1000 and it has plenty of power stock. All bikes have their strong and weak points, but I'm pretty happy with this new one. I've had 4 Busa's (still love'm), but needed a "change of pace".
 

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I got 10 more HP with a full Apro system, then 0 more with the PCIII on my 2010 Z1000. I would look at airbox mods to get the power up, your bigger tank robbed the airbox resulting in less power than the z1000, I bet they make a mode for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got 10 more HP with a full Apro system, then 0 more with the PCIII on my 2010 Z1000. I would look at airbox mods to get the power up, your bigger tank robbed the airbox resulting in less power than the z1000, I bet they make a mode for it.
Has anyone tried a mod for the airbox?
 

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Gotta love the torque in the midrange. Shifting through gears aggressively makes it feel like the chain will snap.

... also a note to self: crouch down a bit and don't sit up straight with arms extended when taking off! I think my arms are a bit longer now. :eek:
 

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Here's what Sport Rider recommended -

Suggested Suspension Settings

Front: Spring preload - 7 turns out from full stiff; Rebound damping - 2 turns out from full stiff; Compression damping - 1 turn out from full stiff; 30mm fork tube protruding above top triple clamp. Rear: Spring preload - position 5 of 10; Rebound damping - 1 turn out from full stiff.


Ninja 1000 Test Notes and Opinions - Sport Rider Magazine

They stiffened up both ends slightly from factory and pulled the fork tubes up some. That might be a good place to start.
I have a question about the front compression damping, maybe someone can verify this... I think (hope) it's just a typo/lost in translation in the manual.

Page #134 says "The compression damping force adjuster are located at the lower end of each front fork leg". (is says each but the grammar is in singular "leg" lol)

My bike has it only on the the right hand side? I looked all over the left side...am I blind? :screwy:

I appreciate it if someone can verify this, thanks.
 

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I have a question about the front compression damping, maybe someone can verify this... I think (hope) it's just a typo/lost in translation in the manual.

Page #134 says "The compression damping force adjuster are located at the lower end of each front fork leg". (is says each but the grammar is in singular "leg" lol)

My bike has it only on the the right hand side? I looked all over the left side...am I blind? :screwy:

I appreciate it if someone can verify this, thanks.
Yes, the manual is incorrect. There is only one compression damping adjuster and it is at the bottom of the right fork leg.
 
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