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Ok appreciate all the info.

couple of questions, where can i buy the blank plates and where do they actually go?
I bought mine at


But the plates From brand Driven you'd have to google.

This is where the plates need to go.



ok so no real need to bother with a power commander if the bike is going for a dyno tune/map
If your are going for a flash, then you dont need a power commander. If your tuner can't flash your ECU then you do need a power commander.

I did both cause i sent my ecu to the USA for ivan flash and had it finetuned on a power commander here in the Netherlands in local weather conditions.


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@Chase43 I see you're from the UK. Look for a tuner who does the woolich flash. Read alot of good reviews from uk owners.

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I live in Canada Ontario and own 2016 Z, your mod had some valid points to it that made sense. I'm an HVAC mechanic so i related to the theory of cold air making more HP and the mod seem valuable.

However upon doing this mod i ran into some issues on my end. After assembling the bike back together and starting it i found it threw the idling off. As if it was starving for air.

The engine couldn't breathe and kept cutting out prematurely. I increased the idle and was unable to solve the problem.

I took a look at your blank off plate in the stock airbox and seen it was a different design from mines here in Canada.

My bike is set up with a akrapovic header dual M4 slip on,blank off plates, K&N air filter ECU flash and PC5. That set up and dyno tuned gave 140BHP to the wheel on a 23C day temperature.
 

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I live in Canada Ontario and own 2016 Z, your mod had some valid points to it that made sense. I'm an HVAC mechanic so i related to the theory of cold air making more HP and the mod seem valuable.

However upon doing this mod i ran into some issues on my end. After assembling the bike back together and starting it i found it threw the idling off. As if it was starving for air.

The engine couldn't breathe and kept cutting out prematurely. I increased the idle and was unable to solve the problem.

I took a look at your blank off plate in the stock airbox and seen it was a different design from mines here in Canada.

My bike is set up with a akrapovic header dual M4 slip on,blank off plates, K&N air filter ECU flash and PC5. That set up and dyno tuned gave 140BHP to the wheel on a 23C day temperature.
Your airbox does seem a bit different. Are you sure the air entrance isnt blocked at all?

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I live in Canada Ontario and own 2016 Z, your mod had some valid points to it that made sense. I'm an HVAC mechanic so i related to the theory of cold air making more HP and the mod seem valuable.

However upon doing this mod i ran into some issues on my end. After assembling the bike back together and starting it i found it threw the idling off. As if it was starving for air.

The engine couldn't breathe and kept cutting out prematurely. I increased the idle and was unable to solve the problem.

I took a look at your blank off plate in the stock airbox and seen it was a different design from mines here in Canada.

My bike is set up with a akrapovic header dual M4 slip on,blank off plates, K&N air filter ECU flash and PC5. That set up and dyno tuned gave 140BHP to the wheel on a 23C day temperature.
check that all your rubber intake boots are seated correctly. Both the one from the head to throttle and the ones from throttle to airbox. Since you took the airbox off to do this mod, it's pretty easy to install them back without fully seating the intake boot back all the way, especially if you didn't use lube, and it's also hard to see if the inner boots are seated all the way in. Also as you were tugging on the airbox to remove it, you could have dislodged the throttle body from the head boots, which would cause a massive vacuum leak throwing your idle off. Recheck your work, something like this mod should not cause any idling issues, it doesn't really affect air flow until well into the upper RPM range.
 

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Your airbox does seem a bit different. Are you sure the air entrance isnt blocked at all?

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I have a small hole dead center of the airbox blackoff plate. What i notice is under idle it draw a small amount of air through that hole and when the throttle is open it utilized the the bigger opening for air.
check that all your rubber intake boots are seated correctly. Both the one from the head to throttle and the ones from throttle to airbox. Since you took the airbox off to do this mod, it's pretty easy to install them back without fully seating the intake boot back all the way, especially if you didn't use lube, and it's also hard to see if the inner boots are seated all the way in. Also as you were tugging on the airbox to remove it, you could have dislodged the throttle body from the head boots, which would cause a massive vacuum leak throwing your idle off. Recheck your work, something like this mod should not cause any idling issues, it doesn't really affect air flow until well into the upper RPM range.
Thanks ill look into that and update when i find the fault
 

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Had mine mapped with the air box mod.

black widow headers and SC end cans

151whp - 164bhp
One question tho , where does the 164bhp come from?

151hp at the wheel should be 169hp at the crank?

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Here is the chart dyno from motorcycle.com’s review test. So you can use their numbers and back calculate the mechanical loss percentage using the OEMs publish values for HP at the crank.

(1 - ( measured rear wheel hp / published engine crank hp ) ) * 100 = % mech loss

for Z1000

1 - (124 hp / 142 hp) * 100 = 12.7% mech loss

85176

85177


85178
 
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