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Hi. I tried to remove my front sprocket nut with a 27mm socket (and breaker bar) but made the mistake of using a 12 point socket with the result that the edges rounded off. Now I'm hoping that obtaining a 6 point socket and trying ,it should still grip. There is a 32 mm section at the base of the nut but it seems too shallow to get a socket on. Please could you give me some advice. Is the 27mm socket correct? I've heard that a 1 1/16 " fits better. Thanks.
 

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The factory puts on the sprocket nut with a crazy amount of torque. It's almost impossible to get off with just hand tools. You will need one of these clutch holder tools and an impact wrench capable of 500+ NM of torque, either cordless or pneumatic. Don't try with hand tools or you will keep rounding it off, and if you screw it up too much it has to be cut off with a Dremel.

85601
 

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I rounded mine off and used a chisel / hammer to remove


i fucked up and had my electric impact wrench set in wrong direction and just pounded on it, dumbazz move
 

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Depends on the year I think but my 3rd gen the 27mm section is the upper section. That’s the actual nut, the front part is the speedo sensor, I’m guessing if you have an earlier Z the nut might be bigger, so get a good 32mm 6 point for the upper portion. Also make sure to bend outthe locking washer. Like ungarish said, it’s put on crazy tight at the factory, you can use the tool he showed you or if you have an extra set of hands you can have someone sit on the bike with the chain on it still and hold the rear brake. I rounded mine off with a shitty old deep impact socket, bought a new 27mm and my nitrocat1250xl, a reputable air gun by any means, couldn’t handle it still. I had to lay my whole weight and push with all my might into a 5 foot pipe over a breaker bar and when it finally gave way I face planted. Hard.
 

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Also I think a 1-1/16 is slightly smaller than a 27mm but if it doesn’t full seat it’s only going to round it off worse. Try a 6 point 27mm and set yourself up as best you can to get a good whack on it. Also heat helps. Propane torch, nothing hotter (blue tank, no yellow) and even then becareful there’s a seal behind the case on the shaft you don’t want to get too hot.
 

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so when I do the conversion from English to metric here’s how i do it when trying to use an english socket

1-1/16 inch socket conversion to metric

1/16 = 0.0625 inch

1 + 0.0625 = 1.0625 inch

conversion 1 inch = 25.4 mm

1.0625 inch X (25.4 mm / 1 inch) = 26.9875 mm

so, just a hair smaller.

The only time I ever use 12 point socket is if I have a 12 point nut or bolt; otherwise, risk rounding the nut. i’ve learned that the hardway unfortunately too 😫. Once you get the six point socket on there you’ll get it off.
 

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This socket avoids the hassle. We need the 27/32 for our bikes.

This socket fits both sections at the same time. It's still incredibly difficult to loosen, but this socket wont slip.

 

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This socket avoids the hassle. We need the 27/32 for our bikes.

This socket fits both sections at the same time. It's still incredibly difficult to loosen, but this socket wont slip.

Looks like a useful piece of gear. No UK suppliers as yet unfortunately.
 

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How about here??? This popped up on my us search. It pays for itself since it doesnt destroy the nut.

 

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How about here??? This popped up on my us search. It pays for itself since it doesnt destroy the nut.

Yep,they will post to the UK,but I get stiffed with all sorts of import charges,which will come close to doubling the price,unfortunately.
 

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That sucks. One option might be to get a 6-point, 32mm socket, but machine its face to where its flat. That's one thing I notice about my psr socket.
85602


It's funny, but its sent out in it's own display case...notice how flat it is, it square....its edge isnt as round as a normal socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Thanks for replies. I have ordered a new 27mm 6 point socket and a 1 1/16" and will have another try. I've had the idea of ratchet tying down the brake pedal so that I don't need to apply it whilst undoing. Also some heat around the nut should help along with a long breaker bar. If I really can't shift it the sprocket actually looks fine, with no wear, so I will leave it.
 

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You guys would have laughed when I changed my front sprocket. I had trouble, go figure.

I ended up with a piece of oak, through the back wheel, and a long breaker bar. Push....nothing. push....nothing...repeat..nothing.

I added a section to the bar as a cheater. Push.....crack...snap.....

The nut broke loose. A massive CRACK was heard throughout Utah, and part of the mountain west.....Finally. Sadly, the oak board busted and smacked me on the ass with around 100-150 lb/ft worth if force.

Still well worth it as the nut was loose. Im happy, but soon realize I'm hearing something that sounds like a long fart. While one end of the board was hitting my ass, the other end was busy destroying the valve stem. That explained the fart.

I figured Kawasaki had over torqued the original bolt, but the second removal wasnt much easier. The PSR socket was amazing, but I still needed everything my 1/2" air gun had to offer.
 

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For the impact gun to work properly you cannot block the rear wheel, you need to block the sprocket itself via the clutch tool I posted above. If you just block the rear wheel with either the rear brake (doesn't work) or a 2x4 through the spokes, the the flex and stretch of the chain with absorb all of the impacting action from the impact gun, and then even a 1000 ft/lb big-boy gun isn't going to take the nut off.

Infact my nut was on so tight that even with a 6 foot breaker bar and a metal hammer in the spokes to block the wheel, it bent the damn hammer before the nut ever budged. I then got the clutch holder tool, blocked off the countershaft sprocket with it against the case, and I immediately was able to buzz it off with my 450 ft/lbs Ingersoll, zero issue. So that's the trick to it, use an impact so that you don't risk rounding the nut off trying to do it manually.

85604
 

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The factory puts on the sprocket nut with a crazy amount of torque. It's almost impossible to get off with just hand tools. You will need one of these clutch holder tools and an impact wrench capable of 500+ NM of torque, either cordless or pneumatic. Don't try with hand tools or you will keep rounding it off, and if you screw it up too much it has to be cut off with a Dremel.

View attachment 85601
I know it has worked for you Ungarisch,but I'd have thought the clutch basket would be way to fragile to use like that?
 

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i usually put the bike in 6th gear to reduce the rear wheel torque when taking off the front sprocket. less mechanical advantage that way for the wheel to spin during the process.
 

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The last time I removed mine, I used air power. I didnt have to block anything. I'm not even sure the bike was in gear.

Why does that work? The first time, I finally broke it loose with the 6ft breaker bar, but somehow the air power tool hit it so fast, it was off before anything else could move.
 

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Hi. I tried to remove my front sprocket nut with a 27mm socket (and breaker bar) but made the mistake of using a 12 point socket with the result that the edges rounded off. Now I'm hoping that obtaining a 6 point socket and trying ,it should still grip. There is a 32 mm section at the base of the nut but it seems too shallow to get a socket on. Please could you give me some advice. Is the 27mm socket correct? I've heard that a 1 1/16 " fits better. Thanks.
I’ve always been told that as a general rule of thumb, you should always use a 6 point socket when breaking torque.
I also had a similar problem with my front sprocket. My air compressor wasn’t heavy duty enough to produce the air pressure needed. After several bent screw drivers and solid metal rods (not to mention no riding for 2 weeks), I picked up a cordless Ryobi 1/2” impact wrench and it took that nut off without any problem at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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