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Please educate me.

Thanks, Mike
If you were to put 8 aaa batteries back to back, in series, you'd have 12 volts. wouldn't start the bike tho.......... BTW, you could jump start it from a NON-RUNNING car too as a battery check, that would be an example of parallel wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
If you were to put 8 aaa batteries back to back, in series, you'd have 12 volts. wouldn't start the bike tho.......... BTW, you could jump start it from a NON-RUNNING car too as a battery check, that would be an example of parallel wiring.
I realize that. I'm questioning "volts mean nothing". Would 6 volts at 240 amps start a 12 volt motorcycle?
Well aware a 12 volt battery will start a 12 volt battery. Kept battery above 12.6 volts, but didn't consider voltage drop key on or starting. Or CCA for that matter.
This battery lasted me 11 years, and that's typical for me. I have more experience, though not a lot, with other electrical issues.
Really desire to understand this for the future. If knowing battery voltage drop in use is of no value, that would be good to know. As of now, that is not my experience.

Thanks, Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Exactly. you do need both volts and amps to produce power.(watts)
Like you need torque and time (rpm) to produce horsepower (also watts)
I find it amusing, no slightly irritating, that those who had nothing useful to contribute to solving the original problem are here to critique the method used to produce results.

Mike
 

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Exactly. you do need both volts and amps to produce power.(watts)
Like you need torque and time (rpm) to produce horsepower (also watts)
I find it amusing, no slightly irritating, that those who had nothing useful to contribute to solving the original problem are here to critique the method used to produce results.

Mike
u get it right?

bottom line if im having starting issues of any sort really. first thing i do is rip the battery out and bring it to a store to get load tested. It cost nothing and takes all of 10 mins
 

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Discussion Starter #26
u get it right?

bottom line if im having starting issues of any sort really. first thing i do is rip the battery out and bring it to a store to get load tested. It cost nothing and takes all of 10 mins
Think so.

Bike starts, riding daily.

Thing I'm done here.

Mike
 

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a little late

but in case of low voltage it is Ohms law. Look at voltage as the electrical pressure and amps are your electrical flow. Winding in the starter motor and wires them self create resistance to the flow. Over years lead plates erode and reduce surface for electrochemical reaction to go which leads to voltage drop under load. Without voltage you don't have pressure to overcome resistance of the starter and create adequate amperage(flow)
Hope it does make sence.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
but in case of low voltage it is Ohms law. Look at voltage as the electrical pressure and amps are your electrical flow. Winding in the starter motor and wires them self create resistance to the flow. Over years lead plates erode and reduce surface for electrochemical reaction to go which leads to voltage drop under load. Without voltage you don't have pressure to overcome resistance of the starter and create adequate amperage(flow)
Hope it does make sence.
Yes it does, that's what I was trying to get at. You explained it well.

Thanks, Mike
 

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Hi everyone, new member here. I have a '03 Z with 64,000 miles on her I am the original owner. Today, while running errands, my bike wouldn't start.
Key on, dash does it's thing as normal.
Hit starter button, no starter, FI light comes on then off, speedo goes up to 17mph clicking sound a tail section area.
Turn key off, the back on, this time FI flashes.
I'm thinking starting system, and the ECU is reacting to that.

Check battery, 12.65 volts OK
.12 volts at starter with button pushed-not getting enough.
Check starter relay: .2 ohm battery connected, approximately correct
open battery disconnected correct

Should probably run codes, I'm just stuck on it being the starting circuit. The clicking I'm hearing could be the ECU relay?

Electrical and FI, could chase my tail for a while here, was wondering if anyone had a similar problem or useful advice.

Thanks, Mike
I'm having exact same issues with my 2013 kawasaki ninja z1000 it never had any issues now just put a new battery in and it just blinks and clicks I don't know what to do.
 

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stupid question but was the new battery charged since being installed? if so, then i would do a load test on the battery as discussed above. trying to use a multi meter to check a battery’s health will not give you accurate results. it’s not the right tool. i bought my load tester from harbor (china) freight years back. if that’s good, then check the starter cable for unusually high resistance with your multimeter.

 
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