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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, I am currently in the process of of buying another motor for my 2016 Z after my engine was blown out and I was wondering if there are any differences between the Euro Engine which I have found on eBay and the US Engine that I currently have.
 

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It's the same engine,as far as I am aware. Euro stuff is usually concerned with emissions and anti tamper,but no restrictions in the actual engine. The only anti tamper screws I've come across are those on the ECU which need to be drilled out for a flash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's the same engine,as far as I am aware. Euro stuff is usually concerned with emissions and anti tamper,but no restrictions in the actual engine. The only anti tamper screws I've come across are those on the ECU which need to be drilled out for a flash.
oh ok, would the engine work with the US ECU
 

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oh ok, would the engine work with the US ECU
The UK and Worldwide models seem to share the same part number for the ECU. I'd have been surprised if it was otherwise.

UK ECU

21175A
21175-0862
CONTROL UNIT-ELECTRONIC
£ 929.51
€ 1,003.87
$ 1,189.77

Worldwide ECU

21175A
21175-0862
CONTROL UNIT-ELECTRONIC
£ 929.51
€ 1,003.87
$ 1,189.77
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
perfect another question if you don’t mind me asking, my engine had blown out 2 days ago and there was oil everywhere on the highway. Would you know what would have caused this, the motor only had about 12,000 miles on it at the time of this incident
85922
 

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Nasty.

Others will know for sure,but it kind of looks like the rotor/stator has disintegrated and taken out a chunk of the casing.
 

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The rotor is behind the cover that's still in good shape. The camshaft/camshafts are/ is on top of the motor, so I dont think that's the problem. You havent given enough info to where anyone could possibly help you with this.

What speed? What mods do you have? Really, anything useful would be very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The rotor is behind the cover that's still in good shape. The camshaft/camshafts are/ is on top of the motor, so I dont think that's the problem. You havent given enough info to where anyone could possibly help you with this.

What speed? What mods do you have? Really, anything useful would be very helpful.
was running at about 80-90ish when it happened, bike was in 5th gear then all of the sudden the bike shutoff and I felt something hit my food and seen oil spewing out. I have changed the spark plugs and oil before riding the bike and the only mods i have done to the bike are vortex aluminum sprockets 16/43, D.I.D chain, Black Widow 4-1 Full system exhaust and K&N air filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
was running at about 80-90ish when it happened, bike was in 5th gear then all of the sudden the bike shutoff and I felt something hit my food and seen oil spewing out. I have changed the spark plugs and oil before riding the bike and the only mods i have done to the bike are vortex aluminum sprockets 16/43, D.I.D chain, Black Widow 4-1 Full system exhaust and K&N air filter.
also when i seen the fluid spewing out it was white not sure if that will help diagnose the issue
 

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initially looked like your starter's sprag clutch exploded, but then I saw the hole in the block at cylinder 1, which means you threw a rod. That engine is toast. You can pick one up on ebay for between 500-800 USD. Don't bother with people that are asking $3k for them, those guys are on crack. No need to import one from europe, these things are over 200 lbs, requiring a cradle to be built to keep upright, plus the logistics and customs would be a nightmare. Just look on ebay. Technically any late 2010 to 2016 Z1000 engine will work (I say late 2010 because early 2010's had a different timing chain and sprocket), and if you do get a 3rd gen engine, just swap the intake cam from your 4th gen and you should be good. Also any 2011-2013 Ninja 1000 engine will work as well, and most probably the 2014 and up would as well (@rcannon might know better about the Ninja's), but again you would need to swap intake cams to match the cam lift and duration that your ECU is tuned for. The 4th gen has a slightly different intake came from the 3rd gen and Ninja 1000's, but otherwise the engine is pretty much identical, some slight decorative difference on the cylinder block, and different color (gray) case and valve cover, though that can be swapped over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
initially looked like your starter's sprag clutch exploded, but then I saw the hole in the block at cylinder 1, which means you threw a rod. That engine is toast. You can pick one up on ebay for between 500-800 USD. Don't bother with people that are asking $3k for them, those guys are on crack. No need to import one from europe, these things are over 200 lbs, requiring a cradle to be built to keep upright, plus the logistics and customs would be a nightmare. Just look on ebay. Technically any late 2010 to 2016 Z1000 engine will work (I say late 2010 because early 2010's had a different timing chain and sprocket), and if you do get a 3rd gen engine, just swap the intake cam from your 4th gen and you should be good. Also any 2011-2013 Ninja 1000 engine will work as well, and most probably the 2014 and up would as well (@rcannon might know better about the Ninja's), but again you would need to swap intake cams to match the cam lift and duration that your ECU is tuned for. The 4th gen has a slightly different intake came from the 3rd gen and Ninja 1000's, but otherwise the engine is pretty much identical, some slight decorative difference on the cylinder block, and different color (gray) case and valve cover, though that can be swapped over.
thanks, although i just purchased a 2016 Engine with 1500 miles on it from the UK which ran me about $1700 with shipping on eBay. Would you happen to know why this motor would throw at rod ? I was curious to why this happened. Also, I was thinking about running samco hoses on this motor as they are said to help with lowering operating temperatures.
 

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It can be from anything like an over-rev, like accidentally shfting down a gear instead of up, or extended high revs, ie. burnouts, maybe a bent rod from a hydro lock that wasn't noticed, or running it lean and seizing a piston at high revs. It can be many things, there is no one cause. These bikes don't have oil squirters like true superbikes, so extended high revs are kind of risky, especially if you got a poor, or no tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It can be from anything like an over-rev, like accidentally shfting down a gear instead of up, or extended high revs, ie. burnouts, maybe a bent rod from a hydro lock that wasn't noticed, or running it lean and seizing a piston at high revs. It can be many things, there is no one cause. These bikes don't have oil squirters like true superbikes, so extended high revs are kind of risky, especially if you got a poor, or no tune.
definitely getting a tune before installing the new motor so i can mitigate the possibility of this happening again.
 
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