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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys and gals, just thought id share everything iv done on my Gen 4 since owning her and my mapping/dyno results from today.

Mods:

OZ Racing Gass RS-A wheels
Brembo callipers and discs (front and rear)
HEL braided lines
Black widow headers
SC project silencers
HM quickshifter
Maxton rear shock
Rizmoa rear sets
Renthal Fat bars
Valter moto exhaust hangers
ASV levers
Kawasaki engine covers
Barracuba B lux bar ends
Brembo rear Reservoir and Rizoma front reservoir
carbon Dipped rear hugger , sprocket cover & side panels
Custom tail tidy
Smoked rear light with intergrated indicators
Audi style (flowing) front indicators
Ebay bar end mirrors
Grip puppies

Now for the mapping today I wanted to do everything I could to get the best results so before taking her to the dyno I did the following

New Shell advance oil and K&N filter
New NGK spark plugs
New DID chain and sprocket
New HiFlo air filter
Air box mod and cut the air intake grills away (as shown in the comfysofa video)
Previously fitted Black widow headers and SC Project silencers (baffles in)

I took the bike to a place called Dave Wood racing here in the UK, couldn鈥檛 recommend them enough very friendly, very knowledgeable and very helpful

The bike done 144WHP (157BHP) straight off the bat with no tuning , was running very lean at the bottom end and rich at the top

After tuning the bike it got 151WHP (164BHP) which I was very pleased with :)

The throttle feels smoother and more progressive and really packs a punch when you open it up, the mid range feels stronger and its can rev 300 rpm higher

The tuner said he鈥檚 done loads of z1000 and with headers and an exhaust you normally get about 145WHP not much more. So he thinks that the air box mod probably did make some what Of a difference but bear in mind it was only 12掳 outside.

couple of snaps


FC61A192-9455-461F-AB5B-3C9C67FCF676.jpeg
0AD6BC47-DB2F-44C6-BC14-D2C30154E87D.jpeg
 

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Cool - nice to know what i can expect!! (when i can afford it!!!)

Questions....
Did the wheels fit straight in?
Did you feel the difference when the wheels went on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes straight in, obviously with the correct adaptors

definitely felt the difference with the lighter wheels, Feels more nimble and easier side to side And actually easier to push in and out the garage

yet to have a good 鈥榮pirited鈥 ride as the roads are bad 馃槚 roll on spring
 

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Tr猫 trick and tastefully done good sir.

No fork mods,or don't you feel it's necessary for your needs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks bud

Personally I feel the front forks are fine, could use a proper set up Though
it鈥檚 that rear shock that was horrible lol
 

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The Ohlins rear shock on mine was very 'tight' from new,but approaching the 3k mark it has improved a fair bit. I'm going to wait until the Spring and better roads before I make a decision on the forks,but I daresay something will be done!
 

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My Ohlins was the same to the point where I considered having it resprung. Took it about 1500 miles to settle down.
Front is perfect.
 

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My Ohlins was the same to the point where I considered having it resprung. Took it about 1500 miles to settle down.
Front is perfect.
I have to say as time and miles go on I'm feeling happier with the forks myself. I'm certainly not going to fork out (ha) on a revalve if they are acceptable. We'll see come the Spring.
 

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does anyone add an oil cooler when increasing the hp? I noticed most the motorcycles that compete with the Z 1000 that have about 160 hp typically have an oil cooler too to deal with the extra heat. i鈥檓 just curious. your Oz wheels look hot!

85173
 

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I have not heard of anyone adding the oil cooler....the bike looks great, and I love the mods.

The oil cooler. I have not heard of anyone doing this to this generation of engine......z1000, ninja 1000, z900...all closely related.

Your bike isnt running lean, anymore and these bikes just dont have any cooling issues. Especially after you corrected its fueling.
 

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I have an oil temp gauge on my bike, and even when I was running it at at toasty 110*F trackday last summer, the oil temps never ever got above 90*C (194*F). I really dont think a cooler is needed. I run distilled water with water wetter for coolant and the original Kawasaki Gold label 10w40 for oil.

EDIT: The bike does have a liquid to liquid heat exchanger on the oil filter bung. So the bike does have an oil cooler, just not the air to liquid type that you see on superbikes.

85233
 

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That is very interesting I did not know that. I dig your oil temp gauge. I might have to find one for myself now. if I was running a heavy modified bike I think I would want to be using the full synthetic but if the oil is within its working temperature range under load then all good.
 

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I have an oil temp gauge on my bike, and even when I was running it at at toasty 110*F trackday last summer, the oil temps never ever got above 90*C (194*F). I really dont think a cooler is needed. I run distilled water with water wetter for coolant and the original Kawasaki Gold label 10w40 for oil.

EDIT: The bike does have a liquid to liquid heat exchanger on the oil filter bung. So the bike does have an oil cooler, just not the air to liquid type that you see on superbikes.

View attachment 85233
I see you have done hydraulic clutch. Which parts did you use? Had you make the additional bracket?
 

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I see you have done hydraulic clutch. Which parts did you use? Had you make the additional bracket?
I used a Magura size D slave cylinder, Magura 195 13mm clutch master cylinder and Venhill clutch line. Though you can just buy the HyMec kit from Magura specifically intended for a Z1000 for probably cheaper, I just wanted a radial master to match my Brembo brake master.
 

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I used a Magura size D slave cylinder, Magura 195 13mm clutch master cylinder and Venhill clutch line. Though you can just buy the HyMec kit from Magura specifically intended for a Z1000 for probably cheaper, I just wanted a radial master to match my Brembo brake master.
I rapidly bot RCS 16 Corsa Corta Clutch master cylinder.... It need the 19 mm clutch cylinder on the end for best work.
But I find 19 mm cylinder only on AliExpress....
 

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I rapidly bot RCS 16 Corsa Corta Clutch master cylinder.... It need the 19 mm clutch cylinder on the end for best work.
But I find 19 mm cylinder only on AliExpress....
Magura slave is pretty much the only thing that works. The slaves of AliExpress are too large to fit in the stock perch, the engine block is in the way. If you use the Magura slave, then you MUST use mineral oil, which means you must also use a mineral oil compatible master cylinder. Brake fluid will ruin the seal in the slave cylinder immediately upon contact, while mineral oil will ruin the piston seal in the Brembo master. You are pretty much stuck with using a Magura master, but you got a few options, the 163, 167, 190, 195 models or the mineral oil versions of the HC1 and HC3. Brembo does not make a mineral oil version of their master cylinders.

Also, 16mm is way too big to use for Magura slave applications, you will hydrolock the slave piston with only 1/2 lever movement, and will eventually blow the seal. The ideal size master is 10.5mm from the 163 and 167, but you also use 12mm HC1/HC3, or the 13mm 190/195, which is what i use. The lever is a bit more stiff with the 13mm, but I move my clutch lever very close to the bar, so it works out for my application..
 

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Slave cylinder, mm/ piston stroke RCS 16 Corsa Corta, mm
16​
17​
18​
Effort ratio
14​
20,89795918​
22,20408163​
23,51020408​
0,765625​
15​
18,20444444​
19,34222222​
20,48​
0,87890625​
16​
16​
17​
18​
1​
17​
14,17301038​
15,05882353​
15,94463668​
1,12890625​
18​
12,64197531​
13,43209877​
14,22222222​
1,265625​
19​
11,34626039​
12,05540166​
12,76454294​
1,41015625​
Whis stock clutch we have stroke - 10 mm(position 5), 14 mm(position 1). So with 16 master cylinder the best way is 19 mm slave cylinder.
If the problem only in different seal - we can change the seal, or make a new one.
In way with Alixepress slave cylinder the path is too make a bracket.
I like brembo Costa Corsa master cylinder, i need to find the wayo_O
 

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I really doubt you will find the correct compatible seal. They are not just regular "o-rings" but special shapes specifically designed for the particular piston, see photo below. You can technically use DOT5 silicone based brake fluid as it's compatible with both the mineral and glycol compliant seals, but DOT5 has terrible lubrications properties, and it will destroy your magura slave in a few weeks of use. Also the clutch travel will not be smooth and bind up in it's travel.

Good luck to you, just don't waste too much money as I did...

85801
 
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