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This is my take on the airbox mod that so many people are doing and have done for years.It relates to all motorcycles that i know of that have a (smog pump)installed.After years of people removing the pump and plumbing the valve cover breathers directely to the lower crankcase breather then plugging the airbox thinking they are achieving more HP its a lie! One that over time will due more harm than good.How this lie has gone on for so long is beyond me!Lets start with the small very low elerctrical pump.This pump pushes cool fresh air into the valve cover,through a one way reed type valve or two which then vents itself usually atop the gear case then is returned to the airbox to be burnt through the engine itself.Its environmently friendly and helps cool your crankcase.
Now how would connecting all these hoses together be benificial to your engine,Well lets take a look, you are now sealing your crankcase vents shut great for 4wheeln not so much street use.What you have done is created is a minor vacume pressure fight within the crankcase.Which can cause gasget failures,higher internal temps,and advanced enginge wear!Emmission plates sound bad but they are not if you understand why they are there.I know this may be boring if your johnny hot rodder but give me a few more scennarios to prove my train of thought.
OK Lets get started,That little pump does nothing more than push COOL air into the valve cover,which in turn goes through a set of reed type valves to insure only cleen cool air enters the engine which flows down and through your engine till it reaches the evac point usually above the trans or gearset if you like.By now this air is dirty(from oil being slung around in a hot environment(smog) which is then introduced into the airbox to be burt with the regular air in the airbox.
NOW if you do the traditional airbox mod all you are doing is taking a open system,which provides crankcase breathing and cool air,and sealing the case so your engine is just pumping the same hot smog gas back and forth within itself.Which makes the pistons work harder to travel up and down in the bores.(Lost POWER,pressure for seal leakage,piston blow by and accellerated engine wear.If you dont mind being to be dirty to the environment simply apply small k&n flters to valve cover after removing smog pump but leave the plates in place they keep cool air moving throughout the enginge and relive pressure from case and pistons.Cooler engines produce more power.I myself will let that little air swithching push cool air all thru my motor cool it and carry all that potential slude out of my engine.What are you guys opinion on the obvious?
Lets talk some physics and thermal dynamics and how they effect an engines dynamics.
Hope this saves some time and hose purchases for those who are less educated,not to mention an innocent engine or two ....Peace Barry:2cents:
 

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Doesn't sound at all like the airbox mod I did. Sounds alot more like the KLEEN system removal mod. The only airbox mod I know of is the one where you remove some plastic from the top of the airbox lid. You do make some valid points though. I left all my emissions stuff alone.
 

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Mine looks different from that still. The "horn" on mine is still intact but the plastic below it is not
 

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I did cut the lid & blocked off the cool air intakes, but left the crank case breather alone. If you leave the cool air intake open the bike will back fire alot more
 

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i did the KLEEN mod on my ZRX back in 2003. i wish i just left it alone. it was a plumbing night mare. i bet i removed 25 feet of hoses ,switches, fittings etc. it would almost be imposable to reinstall all that plumbing. their is no HP gain in this mod. i have a full MUSSY on my 2004 ZED and without this mod my bike NEVER back fires on decell.
 

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Yeah, this is in reference to the Kleen Air mod. I believe the big claim is that the Kleen Air system screws up your Air/Fuel ratios when the extra air is introduced, making proper dyno tuning impossible. Whether or not that's true is another matter entirely, but I've absolutely questioned the consequences behind it.

Sadly, few people keep their bikes long enough to show any truth to it.
 

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I've seen a couple of references to a smog pump or air pump on our bikes. I've seen this here and on other boards and I don't get it.

The Z1000/Ninja 1000 have no air pump, no smog pump, no emissions pump of any kind.

Oil pump - yes
Fuel pump - yes
Water pump - that too

But no other pumps.

The air injected into the exhaust system via reed valves is done by pressure differential. There's no parasitic loss like with a system that uses an actual pump.
 

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good call, I didn't even pick up on that....lol, smog pump.
 

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What pump are they blocking off, then? That's kinda scary.

I haven't looked at my service manual to figure it out and it's not handy here at work.
Maybe they are referring to the engine itself as a pump; which is basically all an internal combustion engine is. If you were to have a sealed off version of a pressurized crankcase then I could see how that would affect things negatively.
 

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Maybe they are referring to the engine itself as a pump; which is basically all an internal combustion engine is. If you were to have a sealed off version of a pressurized crankcase then I could see how that would affect things negatively.
Nah, I've seen pictures on another forum. It's definitely a pump that's getting blocked off. Gotta wonder which one it is and what it does.
 

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To expound on my post above.

I've seen this Dragroc Kleen air mod :rolleyes: posted a couple of places. It shows a complete lack of understanding of how the whole emissions control and breather systems work on our bikes. The guy doesn't even seem to know what the parts are that he's cutting on.

The system is really simple compared to the elaborate systems you see on current autos. That makes sense considering the emissions limits are so much less stringent on our bikes.

To explain -

1. THERE IS NO AIR PUMP. That thing he's calling an air pump is actually a normally open solenoid valve. Apply power to it and it closes.

2. The crankcase breather is a simple system that connects the engine crankcase to the airbox. This equalizes pressure between the crankcase and the airbox and allows any excess pressure within the crankcase to be vented. Any vapors can them be burned off by the engine.

3. The ports on top of the cylinder head aren't breathers. They're small cases that are ported to the exhaust ports. They each contain a reed valve that allows fresh air into the exhaust ports at times of negative exhaust pressure, but does not allow flow out of the ports and back into the airbox.

So what does this thing that people keep calling an 'air pump' actually do? It's a valve that blocks airflow into the reed cases when power is applied to it. The ECU controls this valve and closes it at the proper times to help prevent backfiring. This is an improvement over the original 'Kawasaki Clean Air System' that allowed constant flow into the reed cases and was known for causing backfires. The original Ninja 900 engines had that system along with the follow on engines of that family like the Concours.

My advice to anyone BEFORE they start modifying their bike is to drop the $70+- for a Kawasaki factory service manual. Study it, then study the parts diagrams available online. Make sure you REALLY understand what it is you're chainging and why. If you don't understand what you're doing, don't screw with it. 99.9% of the time you'll [email protected]! something up and not even understand what you did.

And for sure, DON'T just follow some directions you saw on the internet even if they do come with nice photos and show up on 50 different message boards, with 100 me too! reply's from guys who don't know what they're doing either. It's a hell of a lot easier to post on message boards than it is to actually have a clue...

</Rant>
 

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I cut the entire top out of mine over 3,000 miles ago and love the performance increase. I've riden in the rain for hours on a couple occasions and had no troubles at all.
 
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