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post #1 of 54 Old 11-19-2016, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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Suspension settings

Hey there, I'm interested in playing with the suspension settings on the z1000. Mine's a 2012 model and I looked at sportrider's general suspension guide and got confused why there are 2 suggested settings. I did my fair share of reading but i'm not quite done yet and need to reread it to understand what what is for. So from sportrider, here are the settings:

Setting 1

front preload front rebound damping front comp. damping rear preload rear rebound damping
10 turns out 2 turns out 1.75 turns out 25mm thread showing 1.75 turns out

Setting 2

front preload front rebound damping front comp. damping rear preload rear rebound damping
8 turns out .5 turns out 1.75 turns out 25mm thread showing .25 turns out

By the way I'm like 5'10-11" and around 155lbs. Riding includes twisties and commuting and general all around riding.

Oh and I plan to switch to a Pirelli Angel GT 190/55 rear (currently have angel st 190/55), or a Metzeler Roadtec 01. I know it's a stupid reason but i really hate the look of the front tire of the Roadtec 01 so I might go for the angel gt. Lol

Last edited by kerwinsee; 11-19-2016 at 04:45 AM.
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post #2 of 54 Old 11-19-2016, 10:58 AM
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.The problem with using "recommended" settings is the settings will be good for what that rider wanted, and mostly, what he weighed. Unless you weigh within 10lbs of him, it wont be right for you.

Also, if you brought your bike to me, you'll get what I liked, not what you like sort-of thing.

As you increase preload on a spring, you need more rebound damping to control the return stroke.

I would imagine your weight to be lighter than the test riders weight, and for that reason, try setting 1. This setting appears to be for a lighter rider
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post #3 of 54 Old 11-20-2016, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, will do. I'll try it out tomorrow. Will also need to look for the tool that will turn the rear shock.
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post #4 of 54 Old 11-20-2016, 03:02 AM
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i messed with suspension a lot too, took me a while to land on something i could use on the road and spirited riding in the mountains/track.

Originally the rear preload was set at only just under 3 threads showing, this caused me to scrape many parts of the bike because it would squat in corners, i increased the preload to 13 threads showing and it no longer scraped apart from the pegs. This was too hard in terms of comfort so i backed it down to just under 10 threads showing and found its pretty much right for me, have the rebound damping at 2 1/2 turns out from hard.

Front was a similar story, if i went to high on preload low speed steering was really snappy and quick but at higher speeds bike felt heavy. and visa versa, so i settle on 2.25 turns out from full soft on the preload for the front, 2 1/2 from full hard on rebound and 4 1/2 on compression, this for me is the best compromised between comfort and feel for my riding. Anything more towards hard on the rebound and the front end gets jarring over bumps and holes. With this setting the bike feels heavier at low speed turns but more planted and stable, and at higher speeds it feels just as stable but lightens up a little in terms of side to side weight.

Not sure if this helps but this is what i found out over the course of 2 weeks of fiddling and riding.

Btw im around 90kg, maybe a bit over.

Last edited by Neebz; 11-20-2016 at 03:04 AM.
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post #5 of 54 Old 11-20-2016, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kerwinsee View Post
Okay, will do. I'll try it out tomorrow. Will also need to look for the tool that will turn the rear shock.
Word of advice, when doing the perload for the rear with the c-spanner, wear glove with knuckle/finger protectors, trust me. . .
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Last edited by Neebz; 11-20-2016 at 03:07 AM.
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post #6 of 54 Old 11-20-2016, 11:08 AM
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Neebs, thats a tough position to try and tune from. Things like:

"Originally the rear preload was set at only just under 3 threads showing, this caused me to scrape many parts of the bike because it would squat in corners, i increased the preload to 13 threads showing and it no longer scraped apart from the pegs."

Im not being critical, what are you supposed to do, ?

You might want to look into a t rex rear link. TRex 1013 Z1000, Ninja 1000 Lowering Links Ful

This would allow you to raise the back end to achieve extra height, but still allow you to set preload as per your weight.

Thats way more ideal than having to accomplish both with oen adjustment.
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post #7 of 54 Old 11-21-2016, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Neebz View Post
i messed with suspension a lot too, took me a while to land on something i could use on the road and spirited riding in the mountains/track.

Originally the rear preload was set at only just under 3 threads showing, this caused me to scrape many parts of the bike because it would squat in corners, i increased the preload to 13 threads showing and it no longer scraped apart from the pegs. This was too hard in terms of comfort so i backed it down to just under 10 threads showing and found its pretty much right for me, have the rebound damping at 2 1/2 turns out from hard.

Front was a similar story, if i went to high on preload low speed steering was really snappy and quick but at higher speeds bike felt heavy. and visa versa, so i settle on 2.25 turns out from full soft on the preload for the front, 2 1/2 from full hard on rebound and 4 1/2 on compression, this for me is the best compromised between comfort and feel for my riding. Anything more towards hard on the rebound and the front end gets jarring over bumps and holes. With this setting the bike feels heavier at low speed turns but more planted and stable, and at higher speeds it feels just as stable but lightens up a little in terms of side to side weight.

Not sure if this helps but this is what i found out over the course of 2 weeks of fiddling and riding.

Btw im around 90kg, maybe a bit over.
We are at least 70kg apart. Lol does height matter? Can you also give me advice on what to set my bike in reference to your settings?
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post #8 of 54 Old 11-21-2016, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Neebz View Post
Word of advice, when doing the perload for the rear with the c-spanner, wear glove with knuckle/finger protectors, trust me. . .
Dude, don't leave me hanging, what happens if I don't? Does it spring back hard and hit my hand or something? I'm a total newb so yeah...
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post #9 of 54 Old 11-21-2016, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by kerwinsee View Post
Dude, don't leave me hanging, what happens if I don't? Does it spring back hard and hit my hand or something? I'm a total newb so yeah...
The C-Spanner can slip off the teeth of the adjuster and when that happens, with the amount of force you need to use to tighten the spring, you will end up smashing your fingers and knuckles into either the passenger foot peg mount or the swing arm, i did this and my fingers were swollen for 2 days. So just be careful.
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Last edited by Neebz; 11-21-2016 at 02:27 AM.
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post #10 of 54 Old 11-21-2016, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rcannon View Post
Neebs, thats a tough position to try and tune from. Things like:

"Originally the rear preload was set at only just under 3 threads showing, this caused me to scrape many parts of the bike because it would squat in corners, i increased the preload to 13 threads showing and it no longer scraped apart from the pegs."

Im not being critical, what are you supposed to do, ?

You might want to look into a t rex rear link. TRex 1013 Z1000, Ninja 1000 Lowering Links Ful

This would allow you to raise the back end to achieve extra height, but still allow you to set preload as per your weight.

Thats way more ideal than having to accomplish both with oen adjustment.
Well it is tough and thats why it took me 2 weeks to find a good setup for me, the rear feels good now and with the setup the bike is angled more forward than level which i like because it feels better in the twistiest. I measured the rear sag at 4 threads and at 10 threads, the difference was 34mm and 27mm. So these springs are made for someone around 70kg, i think they are a .80kg spring, to be at the ideal level for my weight i would need to fit either a .95 or 1kg spring on the rear, but thats costly and a pain to do since i found a good setup on the stock one.
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